It was a long way from Europe to Vanuatu (formerly the New Hebrides) in the western Pacific Ocean. The Air France flight from Paris took me to Tokyo, where I had to change to an Air Calin flight to Noumea in New Caledonia. When I arrived there two days later, just before midnight, I was jet-lagged—only to discover, with a sigh and some stupor, that one of my checked bags had not appeared on the conveyor belt. Air Calin did not track bags on their computers. Of course, their agents were keen to hand me a “lost” claim form swiftly, so they could get rid of me with a smile. 

Bikini Atoll is arguably one of the most remote and adventurous dive locations left on Earth. It is literally in the middle of the Pacific Ocean; depths here allow only trained technical divers to reach the wrecks and the atoll feels (and has been) abandoned and deserted in every way. But Master Liveaboards has returned to the location, post-Covid, to bring divers to the wrecks in luxury and comfort—even with internet connection to the outside world via Starlink. I cannot think of a better way to dive this bucket-list location.

Twenty-five years ago, I opened a dive center in Guam called Professional Sports Divers. This was the first dedicated technical diving center in the Western Pacific, but we also taught people to dive and took fun divers out to see Guam’s reefs and wrecks.

It was an early morning departure for the Betico 2, bound for Lifou Island. Check-in was at 6 a.m. at the ferry terminal in Noumea, the main port of New Caledonia. With the maximum luggage allowance at 15kg, plus a 6kg carry-on, I had to come one day early to bring my 42kg of excess luggage as cargo (comprising dive gear and underwater photography equipment). As a diver, there is no other option! Flying also limits you to 15kg max.

It was an hour before sunset, and I was snorkeling at Playa Punta Carola, a blinding white crescent of a beach with jet-black lava rocks marking both edges. Looking closely, some of the rocks moved, giving away that they were actually camouflaged marine lizards shifting or expelling salt from their noses with a loud puff.

I have been fortunate to visit Fiji in years past, and it is one of the few dive destinations that I have returned to on multiple occasions. The country’s amazingly colorful coral reefs, abundant fish life and beautiful landscapes, as well as the warmth and caring of the Fijian people, keep me coming back. I look forward to revisiting favorite dive sites, exploring those yet unknown and embarking on adventures alongside friends old and new. This is a country steeped in tradition and culture that I could move to tomorrow and feel right at home.