I have heard so many marvelous things about Costa Rica over the past years—about the people, the food, its ecosystem consciousness, and of course, the great scuba diving. So here I was, finally, standing on the talcum-powder beach of the Andaz Costa Rica Resort at Peninsula Papagayo. As I looked out at the sparkling azure waters of the Gulf of Papagayo, I spied a sleek center-consoled RIB boat with large twin outboards, coming straight toward me.

Figuring he saw something worth pursuing, I swam blindly after him through the haze of a shimmering thermocline. Emerging out the other side onto the sandy bottom at 104 feet, I was staring at my very first tiger shark as it swam past the videographer and straight towards me.

Instinctively reversing course in shock and with a slight pucker factor, I not so gracefully stumbled backwards over some rocks and fell flat on my butt. So much for those amazing tiger shark photos I had envisioned while staring with anticipation into the blue.

The majority of the diving is deep, taking place between 60 to 90 feet and nitrox is recommended for extra bottom time. Rebreathers are also very useful if available and you are properly certified.

Diving at Cocos Island can be absolutely magical, but this is not a destination for beginners or the faint of heart. Divers that venture here should be comfortable with their buoyancy in blue water and capable of holding onto rocks at depth so as not to be blown away by the strong currents.