Väderöarna (the Weather Islands) is an archipelago on the west coast of Sweden, which offers a rich underwater landscape bursting with vivid colours and marine life. Local underwater photographer Stefan Beskow gives us the inside scoop on this superb dive location.
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“Beautiful!” was the superlative that sprang to mind. Everywhere on the reef wall and around some large boulders, I encountered orange and white anemones mixed with dense colonies of dead man’s fingers. They grew so densely that you could hardly see the rock at all. A few metres above me, kelp leaves hung down and waved at me as they swayed in the gentle swell left behind by the recent wind. The visibility was at least ten metres, maybe more, which was definitely acceptable.
Curious stonefish were everywhere, while more timid blue-ringed and rock-ringed angelfish kept a respectable distance—staying just outside the range of my camera lens. My lens was kept busy for most of the dive, capturing several lobsters and countless nudibranchs crowded on the kelp fronds. I also spotted some cushion sea stars and encountered several bearded dragonets that posed willingly for the camera.
I swam under an overhang and, when I turned on my light, was met with an explosion of colours! I smiled, feeling happy right down to my diving heart. I quickly realised two things. First, it was a privilege to have such great diving on my doorstep. Second, the dive site of Trolleskär in the Väderöarna archipelago was one of my absolute favourite places to be!
Swedish diving
Diving in Sweden is not very well known outside the country. But there is a lot to discover here, and when the conditions are right, the standard of Swedish diving is very high. The archipelago of Väderöarna, located on the Swedish west coast, is undoubtedly one of the best dive spots in the country—especially when it comes to nature diving. This archipelago is located as far west as you can go in this region.
Since Sweden is located far to the north, cold water diving is the norm here. That said, summers are fairly warm in Sweden, with water temperatures reaching 20°C, so it is possible to dive with a wetsuit. During the winter months, however, it is recommended to dive with a drysuit. It is also easy to get here from the rest of Europe. For example, it takes significantly fewer hours to drive here than to the Mediterranean if you live in northern Germany.
Dive centre
Currently, Dyk-Leif is the only dive centre that regularly runs tours to Väderöarna. Here, you can stay on a full-board basis in a villa, a short walk from the boats. The entire house has been converted into a hostel. The concept is well established and works beautifully. You go on full-day excursions, doing surface intervals on various islands in the archipelago, where you also get lunch. The surface intervals are usually generous, and you can swim (in summer), explore lighthouses and viewpoints or even see rock carvings dating back to the 1400s and 1500s on some of the islands.
The archipelago of Väderöarna is quite far from the coast. This means that visibility is usually good. Its western location also means that both saltwater and freshwater surround the bare cliffs, making the biodiversity below the surface the highest in the country.
Diving
There are plenty of dive sites in Väderöarna. I have selected five sites that are particularly close to my heart.
Trolleskär is basically as far west as you can get in Sweden, and is therefore a place that requires the right conditions. The currents can also be strong here. But when the conditions are right, Trolleskär is arguably one of the absolute best dive spots in Sweden. There is an abundance of everything here! Plenty of fish, lush populations of dead man’s fingers and sea anemones. The walls and large boulders, usually nestled in good visibility, make this place hard to beat. The currents ensure that nutrient-rich freshwater is brought to all the animals that feed by filtering their food from the water.
Guleskär is located right next to Trolleskär. This dive site is also very nice and has similar conditions. But instead of large, dramatic walls, there are more ledges, boulders and smaller walls filled with small crevices teeming with life. The rocks here are also sometimes covered with anemones and leather coral.
Rågstuten is often dived on the same day as Trolleskär, after a surface interval on the island of Väderöbod, which has a lighthouse. The dive site is near deeper waters, so you can often see animals that usually live a little deeper. The currents can be strong here and attract a variety of interesting marine life. Spiny dogfish have been spotted here, and the islets are a favourite haunt for large colonies of both harbour and grey seals.
Valeskär is located on the outer edge of the island of Storön. Good weather is required for diving here. The dive site is characterised by boulders and, perhaps most notably, the scattered wreckage of the Finnish schooner Aurora, which sank with seven people on board. The marine life at Valeskär is also exceptional, making it a place that is definitely worth visiting.
Lilla Knappen also has rich marine life. This dive site, as far north as you can get in Väderöarna, offers most of what a diver could wish for, but what really stands out are the huge boulders at the site. These are densely covered with anemones and leather coral. Seabream and lobsters often hide among the rocks, and there are plenty of small tunnels to swim through. Don’t be surprised if you encounter a seal underwater—they are relatively common here.
Topside excursions
There are plenty of hidden gems along the Swedish west coast—too many to list here. In summer, there are lots of places to swim and a wide range of restaurants. Below are some highlights.
Hamburgsund. There are a number of restaurants here, as well as some pleasant swimming spots on the island of Hamburgö, which is accessible by cable ferry.
Smögen, located a few miles south of Hamburgsund, is a typical summer resort where the otherwise modest population swells during the summer months. Smögenbryggan is bustling with life, and all the restaurants and shops are open for visitors to enjoy. Just strolling around the pier in high season is an experience in itself. The nightlife in summer can be intense.
Nordens Ark, a wildlife park located in Hunnebostrand, a few miles south of Hamburgsund, is well worth a visit, especially if you are travelling with your family. Here, you can see Scandinavian animals in beautiful surroundings.
Strömstad and Lysekil are slightly larger towns where you will find plenty of restaurants and some nightlife.
Havets Hus (House of the Sea) is an aquarium located in Lysekil. If you have a day off from diving or your companions do not dive, visiting here is a good alternative.
Fiskebäckskil, a tourist resort at the mouth of the Gullmarn fjord, is a popular destination for topside excursions. Attractions such as Havets Hus, Nordens Ark and the Watercolour Museum are only a short drive away.
Flexible options and easily accessible
As you may have guessed, the archipelago of Väderöarna offers excellent cold-water diving, and there are many nearby topside attractions in the region. An added bonus is that you can always dive here, no matter what the weather is like. In strong winds, it can sometimes be difficult to get all the way out to Väderöarna. In that case, there is always the option of diving inshore at Vedholmarna or Kyrkogårdsön, which are sheltered from the worst winds. These dive sites are characterised by beautifully overgrown rock formations and walls with good marine diversity. What’s more, it is easy to get here from the rest of Europe thanks to the excellent roads in the region. ■
For more information, visit: dykleif.se
SOURCES: HAVETSHUS.SE, NORDENSARK.SE, VASTSVERIGE.COM, WIKIPEDIA.ORG
