The Perfect Dive Liveaboard

The spoiler in this column comes right at the beginning. There is no such thing as a perfect dive liveaboard. At least, I have never come across one, and I have been travelling on dive liveaboards pretty much ever since they became a thing.

The genesis of this article stems from the aftermath of a wonderful liveaboard trip, where the manifold inadequacies of the vessel my wife and I were travelling on were more than made up for by the positivity and camaraderie among our group, and the quality of the diving.

However, the boat itself was in such a poor state. The owners switched us at the last minute from the one we had originally booked to another. Its dilapidated condition and general unpreparedness were so contrary to what we had expected that, as the voyage went on, it became ever more the focus of our attention, and we started debating all the ways in which it could have been better. 

While contemplating the qualities desirable in a dive liveaboard, we began to imagine what might constitute perfection—hence this column. 

Why are all the aspects of the liveaboard experience that I will highlight here important? Few would argue that the safety of the passengers is crucial, but some might think that it does not matter very much whether a wastepaper basket is emptied when it gets full, the kitchen runs out of fresh milk, guest cabins are not perfectly arranged, or the dive deck towels are never dry. However, the mentality of the boat crew and the operators, the absence of care and attention that leads to apparently minor issues like these, can manifest itself in other, much more significant ways. 

For instance, an inattentive crew may not notice that, when the wind is blowing the wrong way, engine exhaust gas gets sucked into the compressor intake and the divers’ air becomes polluted with carbon monoxide. Or, a less assiduous captain may assign only one member of the crew to stand watch at night when the ship is at anchor, and that person may be tired and fall asleep, leaving the ship unattended. 

Between April 2022 and April 2024, thirteen dive liveaboards were lost at sea, leading to the death of dozens of guests and crew. The main causes of these disasters were fire breaking out unnoticed or the ship running aground when nobody was watching. And, as I write this piece, a fire has just broken out on yet another liveaboard, burning it down to the waterline.

Seemingly minor issues can reveal a culture of neglect among owners and crew. 

When a liveaboard operator asks guests about food allergies and then ignores their responses, this is not just an annoying omission. When there is no extractor fan in the guests’ cabin bathrooms, this is not just inconvenient. When a dive guide uses their camera on a dive, this is not just rude. These are all symptomatic of a dive operator that just does not care enough.

Failing to take food allergies into account can lead to a guest becoming ill and cause the liveaboard to return to port, spoiling the entire trip for everyone. Not having extractor fans means the cabins stay humid, floors get wet, mats tend to slip, and guests can fall and hurt themselves, again potentially causing the abandonment of the whole trip. And a guide with a camera does not care about the well-being of the team they are leading. They are not concentrating on looking for marine life, keeping the group together or remaining alert for a diver who may have a problem.

How it should be

Focusing primarily on the boat and boat operations, this is how a liveaboard should be run.

On departure day, the boat sits at the dock, awaiting its new batch of guests. It is upright and perfectly balanced. It does not lean to one side. It is clean, the floors have been washed and swept, the metalwork has been polished, and the cabins are fresh and cool. 

The crew members are well-rested, and they have had plenty of time since the last voyage to bring supplies on board, so they have everything they need for the upcoming trip. Problems that were discovered on the previous trip have been fixed, and anything that was broken has been repaired or replaced.

In the salon, recent certificates attesting to the ship’s seaworthiness, its most recent inspection and the results of tests on electrical systems, fire prevention systems, tenders, life rafts and compressor air quality are mounted on the wall, where guests can easily see them. The liveaboard operation is proud of its maintenance record.

As the guests arrive, the crew is ready. Their preparatory work is complete. They are dressed in team clothing, and on arrival, the guests are offered welcome drinks, snacks and warm or iced towels (depending on the climate).

Once the guests are settled, their baggage has been stowed, and their dive gear has been moved to their respective stations on the dive deck, the next item on the agenda is a boat briefing. This is presented as the most important part of the welcome process and delivered before the boat departs. Other briefings on daily activities, the dive deck and diving protocols will be held later. 

Boat briefing

This boat briefing includes the following:

1.  The location of life jackets, with a demonstration of features and instruction on how to wear one correctly.

2.  The location of life rings, fire extinguishers, smoke alarms, sprinkler systems, fire blankets, flares, first-aid kits and emergency oxygen.

3.  Lifejacket and fire drills, including the location of assembly points and the need for guests to have emergency bags.

4.  A walk-through of emergency exits from cabins and common areas.

5.  Procedures for the deployment of tenders/life rafts and evacuation.

6.  Man-overboard and life ring protocols.

7.  Instructions on how to move around on board, always leaving “one hand” for the boat.

8.  The location of common tripping hazards and other potential obstacles, such as low doorways, slippery floors and metal stairs.

9.  The location of restricted areas, such as the engine room and crew quarters.

10. A list of clear rules regarding alcohol consumption, swimming near the boat and waste disposal. 

11. Instructions on toilet use, water conservation and cabin storage.

This briefing also includes several crucial pieces of information.

a) The boat carries spare tender motors. 

b) The crew maintains a 24-hour watch system, ensuring that at least two members are always awake and alert, even when the boat is docked or anchored.

c) There is a dedicated area where guests can charge devices and batteries, and charging elsewhere is prohibited. This area is well-ventilated, closely supervised and, at night, all batteries and chargers are switched off. 

d) The boat has sufficient supplies of emergency oxygen to cover two divers breathing 100 percent oxygen between the time of their ascent from the dive on which they were injured and their handover to professional medical care. 

e) The amount of oxygen the boat carries has been calculated according to the maximum distance that the boat will be from a medical facility at any time during the trip, and the likely time it will take to get the casualties there.

f) The boat carries extensive medical supplies for handling general illnesses, minor injuries, marine life injuries and common diving accidents. It maintains a full medical kit, and used items are immediately replaced.

Guests are also informed which crew members have up-to-date medical/first aid/oxygen provider qualifications, and which crew member they should contact if they want to speak with a Divers Alert Network emergency doctor.

Dive deck, practice and gear

Later, and before diving commences, the dive team delivers their own briefing.

This includes:

1. The location of a dedicated camera room or camera table, and the rules for its use.

2. How the system for filling cylinders works, and how the crew ensures that guests are not obstructed by the filling process as they move around the dive deck.

3. The composition of dive groups and the allocation of dive guides. 

4. The location of each guest’s dive station, wetsuit hanging space and wetsuit and camera/small device rinsing buckets. 

5. Procedures for leaving the dive deck to board tenders or enter the water, and then the reverse process at the end of each dive.

And key dive deck information, such as: 

1. Each diver’s individual station is spacious enough for them to gear up comfortably without impeding their neighbours.

2. The rinse buckets are clearly signposted and frequently refilled with fresh water.

3. Slip-proof material is in place on staircases, decks, steps, ladders and even the floors of the dive tenders—anywhere a diver may be treading with wet feet.

4. Each dive tender is large enough to accommodate a dive group comfortably and still have plenty of room for the dive guide, driver and one assistant.

5. The tender ladders have non-slip steps and a handle on both sides to help divers pull themselves up and into the tender.

6. Dive deck towels are name-tagged or numbered, so they are easily identifiable as belonging to each guest. 

7. Warm, dry towels are ready on the dive deck for divers when they return from every dive.

The briefing also covers underwater safety advice and other specific matters of protocol. 

Dives, guides and amenities

• Dive guides all wear GPS trackers, Nautilus Lifelines or similar, so they and their groups can easily be located if they come up away from the tenders and are drifting on the surface out of sight of either the tenders or the liveaboard.

• Guides never carry their own cameras—neither still nor video—unless by prior agreement with all their group, and only then when their sole aim is to photograph or film the group to provide them with memories of the trip.

• If guides have photographers in their group, they keep out of the way of their shots as much as possible.

• Morning dives are always made on east-facing sites to ensure the best light conditions. Late afternoon and evening dives are conducted in a calm, enclosed location to facilitate post-dive pickup and minimise the risk of divers going missing in low-light conditions or among the wave shadows cast by a setting sun.

• The trip schedule remains flexible, so that the captain and dive team can give guests the best cruise possible. For example, changes may be required because of the weather, the divers’ abilities or to take advantage of excellent conditions or unexpected marine life sightings. 

• At all times, the entire crew promotes best diving practices and exhibits a strong commitment to marine conservation.

• Divers are encouraged to take a break from diving occasionally during the trip to avoid fatigue and reduce accumulated decompression stress.

• Whenever possible, dive guides make themselves available to help guests with dive logs and fish identification.

• Dive gear in excellent condition is available free of charge for guests to borrow if they do not have their own equipment or do not want to bring their own equipment.

• Nitrox is free and offered as standard.

• Paddleboards and kayaks are available, and the crew will conduct beach excursions in the afternoons for guests who do not want to dive.

Galley and common spaces

• Long before the trip, the operator has asked for guests’ dietary needs, has briefed the galley team accordingly, and the team has ensured that the galley is appropriately stocked. 

• The team knows that, just like an army, divers march on their stomachs. So, they serve guests excellent food, and plenty of it, as well as a good variety of breakfast options.

• Meals are based around the diving day, and the galley staff coordinates with the dive crew to ensure the schedule runs smoothly. 

• Non-stop tea, coffee and sodas are always available, and there is a bottomless cookie jar.

• There are dispensers in all the common areas, delivering cold, warm and hot water, and the dispensers are never empty.

• Hot chocolate is brought out onto the dive deck after night diving, and non-night divers are offered hot chocolate, too.

• Wastepaper baskets are emptied frequently. 

• Unlimited Wi-Fi is provided free of charge in the salon. There are also playing cards, a selection of board games and an up-to-date library of diving books, including marine life identification books. 

• All guests are given a souvenir T-shirt and a water bottle as welcome gifts on day one. 

• There is a “leave behind box” for guests to pass things on to future guests, such as books, sunscreen, bug spray, medical supplies, bathroom goodies or clothing items that they do not want to take with them when they leave.

• Deck chairs are cushioned and washed down daily.

• Outdoor common spaces have plenty of shaded areas.

Cabins

• All mats in the cabins are non-slip.

• Bedding is fresh and comfortable, and cabin towels are clean and substantial.

• Rooms and bathrooms are fitted with hooks for towels and clothing. There is a retractable clothesline in the shower for hanging swimsuits, and ample supplies of soap and shampoo are provided in marked, wall-mounted dispensers. There is always enough hot water, even when all the divers are showering simultaneously.

• Each cabin is equipped with a hairdryer.

The cabins also have:

a) Deep shelves for personal items, fitted with a rim to prevent things from falling out.

b) Window shades to shut out light, if necessary.

c) Air conditioning with a dehumidifier function to keep the rooms cool and dry.

d) An extractor fan in the bathroom.

e) No sharp edges. Furniture corners are rounded off, doors are soundproofed, and nothing is jutting out that a diver moving around the cabin on a rolling boat might cut themselves on. Doorways have padding on the top to protect taller guests. 

No such thing

I hope this gives you a good idea of what to look for when you shop around for your next liveaboard ride.

Why is there no such thing as the perfect liveaboard? There could be, and to be fair, there are many operators out there who think in the same way I do and are honourably close to achieving perfection.

The problem lies in the compromises. Too often, operators think more about diver numbers than diver comfort and erroneously assume that divers are more accepting of hardship than other travellers; therefore, they can cut corners and make more profit without guests objecting too loudly. 

But there is a limit to divers’ tolerance. They may not complain loudly if they feel they are being taken advantage of, but they will not return or post a favourable review, and these days, reputation is everything. 

The recent crop of liveaboard disasters has certainly thrown the focus onto the twin threats of the boat sinking or catching fire. The best indicator that a dive operator genuinely has your safety in mind is if they are visibly taking measures to protect you, not cutting corners anywhere in the operation, and obviously considering your comfort, well-being and happiness as a priority in multiple other, smaller ways.

This includes showing goodwill by not adding extras to the price a guest pays for their trip. There is no reason why the cost of dive gear in good condition, including computers, nitrox blending, satellite Internet, a T-shirt and a water bottle, cannot be amortised across several years. The gear can even be supplied as part of a sponsorship or mutual publicity arrangement with a manufacturer or their regional representative. 

Marine park fees are the one acceptable extra, especially if they are evidently being used for the intended purpose. Contact with rangers, a visit to a ranger station or even just a short film about how the park is working to preserve and improve the environment is always appreciated by guests.

Goodwill works both ways. If you are happy with your liveaboard trip and feel that you have received excellent value for what you paid, you are more likely to leave a substantial tip. If you like the equipment you are given to use, you are more likely to buy the brand for yourself or recommend it to others.

Just because perfection is difficult is an inadequate reason for liveaboard operators not to aspire to it. ■