The idyllic islands of the northern Maldives, located in the Indian Ocean and far from the tourist crowds, are more untamed than their southern counterparts. Here, the ocean seems wilder, and underwater wonders await. Underwater photographer Kadu Pinheiro recounts his expedition adventure there.
Large school of oriental sweetlips and bluestripe snapper
Contributed by
The Maldives is one of those destinations divers always return to. Routes change, seasons change, expectations evolve… but the magnetism remains. For years, I have explored its southern channels and the central atolls, those iconic underwater landscapes that appear in travel and dive magazines and across social media. I honestly thought I already knew the whole story. I was wrong.
Accepting the invitation to document an expedition to the North of the Maldives felt like opening a new chapter. One that was more remote, quieter, less shaped by tourism and filled with a genuine sense of exploration. There, where the archipelago stretches northward and dive boats begin to disappear, the Maldives once again feels like a wild ocean.
The North of the Maldives: When the familiar becomes discovery
Aboard my favorite liveaboard, the Maldives Blue Force 3, and in the excellent company of Carolina Schrappe—Brazilian freediver, friend and adventure partner—I set out to find that less obvious side of the Maldives. As a model, her precise and fluid movement underwater brought a natural harmony to the images I took, almost choreographed, perfectly matching the untouched character of these reefs.
The North of the Maldives does not try to attract attention. It does not dominate hashtags or appear in most brochures. Yet perhaps that is precisely its greatest appeal. It is a destination for divers who already know the Maldives and want something more—something different.
North Malé to Kaashidhoo: Where exploration begins
The journey unfolded across the atolls of North Malé, Kaashidhoo, Baa, Raa, Lhaviyani and Noonu. It began in the northern part of Malé Atoll, a perfect transition to acclimatize to diving in the archipelago. At Helengeli Thila, cleaning stations attracted grey reef sharks and eagle rays, while Finger Point was constantly full of activity. And this was only the beginning.
As we continued toward Kaashidhoo, the underwater landscape changed, and the sense of isolation grew stronger. Kaashidhoo was a wonderful anomaly. Rarely visited and exposed to clean ocean currents, it offered drift dives with visibility that seemed almost endless. Coral terraces hosted large groupers and Napoleon wrasse, schools of fish moved like compact clouds, and it was not uncommon to encounter green sea turtles or dolphins accompanying the boat during navigation. Here, nature revealed itself without filters or distractions.
An unexpected night: Blacktips take the stage
One of the most unexpected moments of the trip came during what seemed like a quiet night dive. We were searching for nurse sharks near a jetty when the ocean decided to change the script.
Dozens of blacktip reef sharks suddenly appeared and began weaving through the group without hesitation. They swam among us with hypnotic confidence. Feeling the movement of the water as they passed and being able to photograph them at such close range was one of those gifts that cannot be planned.
Baa and Hanifaru: The heart that beats twice
If there is one place that defines this route and elevates expectations, it is Baa Atoll and its most famous jewel: Hanifaru Bay. Declared a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, it is considered the best place in the world to observe reef manta rays.
On the North Route, having the opportunity to visit Hanifaru twice significantly increased the chances of experiencing one of the most spectacular natural phenomena that exists underwater. Watching dozens of manta rays feeding on plankton in the bay—sometimes even accompanied by a whale shark—was an experience that alone justifies the journey.
But the magic did not end there. At nearby cleaning stations such as Kottefaru Corner, mantas allowed an extraordinary proximity. They hovered calmly above the camera, seemingly indifferent to the photographer, offering moments of absolute serenity. Even at night the activity continued. It was not uncommon for whale sharks to approach the stern of the boat, attracted by the lights.
Raa and Lhaviyani: Biomass, action and contrast
As we continued toward Raa Atoll, the density of marine life reached another level. Thilas (Ed. – underwater pinnacles), such as Vaadhoo, Beriyan, Labyrinth or Anemone Thila, were surrounded by massive storms of glassfish. Fusiliers, trevallies, snappers and batfish formed living walls so dense that, at times, the blue disappeared completely. For underwater photography, it was an exceptional stage, with layers upon layers of life where the human scale dissolved.
Lhaviyani Atoll added variety and character to the route. Channels such as Kuredu Express or Madivaru concentrated constant action thanks to the currents. Gray reef sharks, silvertips and eagle rays patrolled the blue. In contrast, Kuredu Caves offered a more relaxed dive, with overhangs where green sea turtles rested, seemingly untouched by time.
Noonu: Where the journey becomes a privilege
The cruise continued toward Noonu, one of the least explored atolls in the country. Here, the feeling of being far from everything became real. Thilas covered with soft corals, sponges and black coral hosted less common species, including guitar sharks, leopard sharks and large eagle rays gliding over deep slopes.
But Noonu was not only about diving. We even had the opportunity to visit Kendhikulhudhoo, an island almost five kilometers long, with two inland lagoons and extensive mangrove areas. Here was a place where time seemed to slow down, and where we were able to enjoy both nature and the everyday life of a local community far removed from tourism, a privilege that is becoming increasingly rare across the Maldives.
Conclusion: A new story to tell
The North of the Maldives was not just a journey to tick off a list. It was an invitation to rediscover a classic destination from another perspective. Here, where boats were scarce and sensations were abundant, the Maldives told a different story, one that deserves to be heard.
I would especially like to thank the wonderful team of Maldives Blue Force 3, who once again made it possible for me to fully enjoy a classic destination where I have dived many times, but which, on this occasion, allowed me to discover a Maldives that felt different, exceptional and surprising.
This type of expedition is only possible thanks to a deep knowledge of the destination. Blue Force has been exploring the Maldives for 30 years and has designed these northern itineraries as a natural evolution for divers who return again and again. One-week programs and extended expeditions of 10 and 11 nights allow divers to explore without rushing, adapting each day’s itinerary to sea conditions and marine life encounters. ■
