The pastel colour palette of underwater Labuan was unique and somewhat mesmerising. Tropical waters are usually blue, but here the lush orange and pink coral beds were draped against a backdrop of complementing mint green. And on the huge wrecks, for which Labuan is known, one is enveloped in enormous swirling schools of snappers. Peter Symes reports.
Soft corals and feather stars on the Cement Wreck
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An offshore, international financial centre and duty-free shopping destination, surrounded by seas dotted with oil rigs, does not exactly give one the impression that this is where some of the region’s finest and most vibrant coral reefs, as well as excellent wreck diving, can be found. But this is indeed the case, and it just goes to prove the old saying that one should never judge a book by its cover. My short visit to the little island of Labuan off the northern coast of Borneo did, in fact, turn out to be an enlightening read that corrected the preconceived and misguided notions I had held about this unique locality beforehand.
Labuan is a small, low-lying tropical island in the South China Sea, located about 8km off the coast of Sabah in northern Borneo. Covering just 92 sq km, it is Malaysia’s only federal island territory and is surrounded by several smaller islets, one of which, Pulau Rusukan Besar, has a cosy dive resort that we were going to dive with during our visit.
The island is gently undulating rather than mountainous, with a coastline of sandy beaches, mangrove forests and sheltered bays. Much of the interior is covered by secondary rainforest, coconut palms and farmland, while the main town, Victoria, occupies the southeastern coast. Despite its modest size, Labuan enjoys a strategic position at the crossroads of maritime routes between Brunei, Sabah and Sarawak, giving it both historical and commercial significance, including a role during WWII, which will get a further mention later in this story.
Getting there
Getting to the island was quite straightforward. It was a two-hour flight from Kuala Lumpur, which is a major hub connecting to other parts of the world. Entry and exit are a bit peculiar, as the island is duty-free, so one has to go through some sort of customs, even though it is a domestic flight. But it was no bother at all. Accompanying and guiding me through the journey was a long-time dive industry colleague, Thayalan Kennedy (Kenny), co-organiser of the highly successful Malaysia International Dive Expo in Kuala Lumpur.
Arriving too late in the day for a dive, we spent the first day and evening in Victoria (officially, Bandar Labuan), the capital of Labuan, and surroundings. We did some basic sightseeing and were introduced to the island by Su Kuan, who was our kind, local guide for our whole stay.
Victoria
Victoria is a compact, relaxed waterfront town with broad streets, low-rise buildings and a distinctly unhurried atmosphere. It comes across as a working and commercially oriented town, where modern shops, cafés and government offices sit alongside traditional shophouses, while a palm-lined promenade and ferry terminal overlook the harbour.
Despite its role as an international offshore financial centre, Victoria, with its population of approximately 100,000 people (which is most of the island’s population), feels more like a small provincial town than a bustling city. It is clean, easy to explore on foot and serves as the island’s commercial hub, as well as the main gateway for visitors arriving by air or sea.
Pulau Rusukan Besar
But we were here to sample some local diving, so the next morning, we were transferred to the little island of Pulau Rusukan Besar, where a dive resort is located. A gentle and soothing breeze greeted us as we walked ashore on the jetty, and we entered a timeless zone, where one did not look at the clock but just went with the flow of diving, enjoying meals, chatting over a beer in the evenings and sleeping. The resort was more rustic than upscale and due for an upgrade, but it was comfortable enough, and I certainly appreciated both the stillness and the view from the patio over the ocean, where we were going to dive on both the wrecks that Borneo is famous for, as well as some very nice coral reefs.
Wreck diving
There are plenty of excellent and exciting wrecks around Borneo. Some found in the waters near the resort, as well as well-known wrecks in the area, comprise the so-called “Big Four”. A few of these wrecks resulted from battles during WWII and have been made somewhat famous by sketches drawn by the late Ron Holland, who was one of the pioneers of the dive industry in Sabah, Malaysia, and a founding partner of Borneo Divers.
Cement Wreck. I had come here to dive on one of these “Big Four” wrecks: the Cement Wreck. Carrying a cargo of cement, the 92m cargo ship, originally named MV Tung Hwuang, sank in 1980 in 21m of water some 21km off Labuan after hitting a bank en route to nearby Brunei. Due to its relative accessibility and modest depth, it is one of the region’s most popular dive sites. It is indeed a very nice wreck with some photogenic structures, such as the main mast with a crossbar that reaches towards the surface. What is also immensely picturesque are the huge schools of snappers and fusiliers that swarm around the superstructure.
As I hauled myself down the downline, which was tied to the mast’s crossbar some six to seven metres below the surface, I had to pull myself against the surface current, which soon abated. I sat on the crossbar to adjust my straps and position my flashes.
The visibility was moderate. Not great, and could be better, but not too bad either. I had been informed that moderate visibility was typical of this location, so perhaps I was just enjoying a typical dive.
The wreck was easy to navigate, as the masts stand out as clear navigational references. All the surfaces of the wreck were covered by marine growth and corals, giving it an almost woolly and, in some places, garden-like appearance, with bushes of corals growing and swaying gently in the weak, residual current at the bottom.
It was not a difficult wreck to dive, but it should be noted that the wrecks, in general, are more suited for divers with more than entry-level training. Some especially important aspects of the dive to note are the depths, which can often be in the 30m (100ft) range to the bottom, with limited visibility and the presence of some current.
A word of caution: I would not recommend these depths to novice divers. In order to handle and enjoy these dives properly and safely, some proficiency and experience are required. It is not the right place to struggle with your buoyancy, which should be second-nature. Wreck penetration without proper training and equipment is also an absolute no-no for obvious reasons.
Batu Agong Reef. In contrast, an otherwise easy and straightforward dive was on the nearby reef at Batu Agong islet, which is not much more than a barren rocky outcrop jutting out of the sea. The depth was only around 5 to 10 metres, so we had bottom time and gas enough for a very long dive. It was almost the opposite of the dive on the Cement Wreck. It was easy and lazy, as we just gently finned forward over the sprawling and very colourful reef.
The light and tone were completely different. The backdrop was a pastel mint green, which contrasted with the complementary colours of orange, red and pink bushes of soft corals. It was like a lush garden. However, there were not very many fishes, which were probably more attracted to the wrecks or deeper reefs.
What stood out was how healthy the corals appeared to be. Considering we were relatively close to urban infrastructure, offshore installations and busy shipping lanes, this came as quite a pleasant surprise. There were no visible signs of coral bleaching or disease, nor the effects of runoff. I would rather enjoy healthy corals than stellar visibility any day.
Contrary to popular belief, crystal-clear waters are not always ideal for corals. Although many tropical soft corals obtain much of their energy from symbiotic algae living within their tissues, they also feed by filtering plankton and organic particles from the surrounding water. While excessive sedimentation can be harmful, moderate turbidity often carries higher concentrations of plankton and organic particles, providing additional nutrition that can allow many soft corals—and some hard corals—to flourish, as was evidently the case on this reef.
Indeed, the waters around Labuan are naturally more turbid than those around Sipadan, or many oceanic islands, because of the river discharge from northern Borneo and regular sediment suspension in the shallow South China Sea. A comprehensive field survey of Labuan Marine Park from 2018 found that the reefs were in fair overall condition.
The healthiest reefs were found around Rusukan Besar (Big Rusukan), the island we were staying on, and Rusukan Kecil (Little Rusukan), where live coral cover was relatively high and biodiversity remained respectable. However, it was also noted that many of the surveyed reefs were classified as being in poor condition at the time. Researchers recorded 38 coral genera from 13 families, with Acropora, Porites and Montipora being the dominant reef-building corals. (Source: hero.epa.gov)
Nature walk and delectable dining
Back on land after some pleasurable diving, we walked around the island and watched the sun set. As the light got softer and the sun set low over the horizon, the golden sand appeared to glow, and across the interstitial zone, a myriad of minuscule hermit crabs—each clad in some very decorative and ornate seashell—raced past, criss-crossing over the sand, busily going about their business.
After a delicious spicy dinner on the patio, we fell into a long, pleasant conversation over some cold beers, while we watched a thunderstorm in the distance, with flashes of lightning lighting up the clouds over Borneo. Mobile phones were put away, except for sharing pictures and telling stories. It felt good just having a pleasant, old-school conversation in good company, where I learned a lot about local customs, and only retiring when sleepiness started to fog one’s mind. I went back to my room and nodded to the “guardian” gecko sitting on the wall above my door that was looking for insects to catch. Before long, I drifted off to the soothing sounds of lapping waves and the breeze jostling the foliage.
My stay on the island came to an end far too soon. There was so much more I would have liked to have seen, but one cannot always get what one wants, and I knew I should rather count my blessings for the rewarding time spent there.
Topside excursions
Labuan Chimney. Back on Labuan Island, we went to see various sights and landmarks. At the northern tip of the island, we found the Labuan Chimney, a notable landmark. I found it a bit weird. It was a 32m tall chimney built of red brick, but as the Labuan Tourism blog explains: “No one can definitively explain why it was built —or why its walls show no trace of smoke. No factory surrounds it. No furnace sits at its base.”
There is simply no obvious explanation for its presence. Yet, there is a museum attached to the structure. It has been surmised that, within the context of coal mining and British colonial industry, the Chimney was built in the late 19th century.
Labuan Bird Park. Just a few minutes’ drive from the Chimney, we found a livelier attraction, the Labuan Bird Park, a small zoo or aviary that houses a diverse collection of tropical and Bornean bird species. Several large, netted enclosures allowed visitors to walk among the birds, rather than view them from outside the cages.
Most notable were a collection of impressive white peacocks, which I had never seen before. Other peacocks of the blue kind, as well as hornbills, perched on overhead branches, and colourful parrots had their own enclosures. Feeding sessions allow visitors—especially younger ones—to offer food to selected species, under staff guidance. This is one of the park’s most popular features and a highlight for families.
Kina Benuwa Mangrove Ecology Park. Located on the southern end of Labuan is Kina Benuwa Mangrove Ecology Park, where an elevated wooden boardwalk winds through the mangrove canopy, taking visitors into the heart of the forest and through a living mangrove ecosystem, where mudskippers, fiddler crabs and migratory birds share the space with monitor lizards, tree-climbing crabs and various species of juvenile fish and shrimp, rounding out the cast. If you have one, bring a telephoto lens to better capture birds and other wildlife. The Kina Benuwa Mangrove is one of the eight geosites that make up the Labuan National Geopark.
Going to hell and back
Ba Xian Miao Temple, also known as the Eight Deities Temple or the “Heaven and Earth Temple”, is a beautiful and very ornate Taoist place of worship which features halls dedicated to both Heaven and Hell. The latter was a unique experience.
Fittingly, one has to descend to the darkened basement to view tableaus of hellish scenery. The hall is not devoted to the worship of Hell itself, but reflects traditional Chinese beliefs about the afterlife, in which the dead face judgement according to their conduct in life. Its sometimes fearsome imagery serves both as a reminder of mortality and as a moral lesson that one’s actions ultimately have consequences.
Traditional Chinese ideas of the underworld, often called Diyu, combine elements of Taoism, Buddhism and Chinese folk religion. The dead are commonly imagined as passing through a bureaucratic system of courts, where their conduct during life is judged. Wrongdoers may undergo punishment and purification before eventually moving onwards in the cycle of rebirth. In this respect, Diyu is somewhat closer to the idea of purgatory than to the Christian concept of an eternal Hell.
Lest we forget
As my grandfather was a WWII veteran who fought in Asia, I felt compelled to visit the Labuan Commonwealth War Cemetery and pay my respects to all those, mostly young men in their 20s, who lost their lives in this horrible conflict. My granddad thankfully survived the war, but all these fallen service members were his contemporaries, many from similar regiments.
Just this cemetery alone held 3,922 graves, many of them unnamed. Not only did these soldiers make the ultimate sacrifice, but they also left behind bereaved families, which was abundantly clear from the many heartbreaking epitaphs I read. Their sacrifice made it so the rest of us could enjoy some hard-won freedoms. It was impossible not to feel deeply affected. We owe them our respect and gratitude.
Markets
I like visiting marketplaces, at least the real ones that are not being put on for show for tourism’s sake, as they provide a genuine glimpse into local produce, spices and herbs, specialities and a variety of daily necessities that the locals use and consume. More often than not, I see some exotic vegetable or fruit I have no idea what it might be, and then I get to find out about it and learn something new.
Out of respect for the vendors, who are obviously there to make a living and not entertain browsing tourists, I have made it a habit of actually shopping. More often than not, I then get into interesting conversations about produce, specialities or fabrics, as curiosity often goes both ways. It is also in such places that I tend to find souvenirs I will actually use. On this trip, I bought some lovely batik shirts, which I now wear.
Food
Whatever I was served, it was always freshly made and delicious. Generally, it was also spicy, which I like, but other travellers may have other preferences. The cuisine was mostly centred on a variety of rice dishes with chicken or various kinds of fish or shrimp.
I enjoyed it all, but, being a Westerner, I was not used to having the same kind of food for all three daily meals. By the end of my trip to Malaysia, I started craving what I consider a regular breakfast, with some toast, eggs and cereal. That said, I was treated to one culinary feast after another. Malaysian dishes are both delicious, colourful and, I think, rather healthy, too. The cuisine is surely an added bonus.
Macro life
The wrecks appear to have taken centre stage in how Labuan promotes itself as a dive destination, and I understand why. However, as I only learned once on the island, it also offers muck diving, where macro photographers can have a field day. As no muck diving was included in my short itinerary, the macro photos in this article have been graciously shared with us by resident underwater photographer Andrea Ruffinegro, who runs a dive centre at Palm Beach Resort on the eastern side of the island with his wife, Aleeze.
While muck diving may not be a nearly hidden gem, it may be an under-appreciated, added attraction the island has to offer. It makes it a complete dive destination in my opinion, and that fact should be highlighted and used in its promotional materials.
Summary
Labuan is a diverse location with much to offer, both under the surface and on land. It does not come across as a glitzy resort but rather a living and working island, where people have different livelihoods and go about their daily lives and routines, giving the place a feeling of authenticity. Tourism and the hospitality industry do not dominate the town or the landscape, as they might on some other islands, but there are, as described, a range of attractions to visit. Beyond discovering the beauty of Labuan nature and culture, I got the chance to learn some surprising new skills on this trip: how to drive an ATV, which came with a fancy certificate, and how to peel shrimp with a fork and spoon without messing up my plate—no certificate required. ■
For more information, please visit: labuantourism.my
References: Encyclopaedia Britannica, Fishbase.org, Labuan Tourism, Pulaulabuan.com, Sabahnites.com, Wikipedia.org
