The small, tranquil seaside town of Anda, on the southeastern corner of Bohol in the Philippines, is a hidden gem with its white sandy beaches, beautiful reefs and an impressive array of marine life species just off its coast. Matthew Meier takes us there.
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“Goooood morning, Philippines!” The time was 3:30 a.m., and the voice of Robin Williams[1] echoed in my head as I drowsily crawled out of bed to turn off the incessant alarm. The goal for the morning was to hike to the top of Alicia Panoramic Park in time to see the sunrise.
Our intrepid group departed in a light rain and the dark of night for a 45-minute commute before ultimately starting our climb just prior to 5 a.m., with the help of a local guide and his faithful canine companion. We carefully navigated a wet, and at times slippery, single-track dirt path rising steadily through rolling hills, tall grasses and scattered trees to the summit, 1,200ft (400m) above.
The upward journey was divided into 11 stages to allow for rest stops and hydration, words of encouragement and views of the surrounding landscape. What was originally described as a “mild hike” seriously underestimated the amount of energy required to reach the peak and safely descend back down to sea level. That said, the effort was well worth the magnificent 360-degree panorama from the pinnacle’s observation platform. Although we did not get to see a colorful sunrise due to overcast clouds, we were fortunate to witness dozens of Brahminy kite birds soaring on thermals overhead. Back at the resort for a well-deserved late breakfast, we reflected on our first adventure of many on the island of Bohol, which offers boundless opportunities for exploration both above and below the water’s surface.
Getting there
The island nation of the Philippines is located in Southeast Asia, east of Vietnam and north of Indonesia, between the Philippine Sea and the South China Sea. The archipelago covers roughly 115,830 sq mi (300,000km2) and has 7,107 islands, of which Bohol, situated in the Central Visayas region, is the tenth largest. Its tropical terrain consists of sea-level coastal lowlands, undulating hills and volcanic mountains, with the highest peak, Mount Matunog, rising to 2,850ft (870m).
On its western coastline are the familiar dive destinations of Cabilao and Panglao, while the town of Anda, situated in the southeastern corner of the island, has become increasingly well-known and popular. Daily international flights arrive in Manila, the capital city of the Philippines, and local flights are now available from Manila to Tagbilaran Airport on Bohol, roughly a two-hour scenic drive along the southern coastal road from Anda.
Diving
I had the pleasure of visiting Anda in the fall of 2016, and I am happy to report that the underwater world is still as spectacular as I remember it! In fact, the area has some of my favorite diving in the Philippines due to its immense diving diversity and its remote, laid-back vibe. The coral reefs are immaculate, and the 28 local dive sites are gently used by only a handful of dive operators. I do not recall ever crossing paths with another dive boat at a mooring buoy, nor have I run into other divers while submerged.
There are beautiful shallow gardens of hard and soft corals beginning just offshore that gradually slope down to vertical walls covered with sponges, corals, sea fans and schooling reef fish. For the macro and muck enthusiasts, the area also boasts large expanses of white sandy sea floor filled with a treasure trove of weird and wonderful critters. Pink and white Bargibant’s pygmy seahorses, which are found on sea fans at relatively shallow depths, are permanent residents of Anda, and if you keep your eyes scanning out in the blue, the occasional whale shark may swim past. If you prefer a somewhat guaranteed sighting, there is also a newly discovered gathering spot for whale sharks, roughly 37 miles (60km) away, which is accessible on a day tour.
The resort
Magic Oceans Dive Resort was my home for this return visit, and the focus was as much on topside activities as it was on diving. This relaxing, quiet property is carved out of a secluded section of oceanfront jungle, beautifully appointed with numerous species of flowers and native plants, along with a variety of local birds, lizards, the occasional monkey and other wildlife.
There is a spacious dive locker with multiple rinse tanks and freshwater showers, plus the only pier in the area for easy access to the dive boats. A well-appointed kitchen is accompanied by a full-service bar for whenever happy hour beckons. There is also a refreshing pool and a spa that offers massages and other services. With only 16 bungalows, the atmosphere is intimate, and the entire staff will know your name by day two of your stay.
Narrow-hulled, outrigger dive boats called bancas are the norm in the Philippines. They come in varying sizes, with larger versions using a horizontal platform above the center hull to expand capacity for both passengers and dive gear. Water entry is facilitated by a backward roll or giant stride, and divers exit the water by walking up a wooden staircase that is lowered from the side of the platform. Transit times to the majority of the dive sites around Anda are between two and ten minutes and are even less to the fantastic house reef just offshore. Most operators offer three to four dives during the day, followed by a night dive or a dusk dive in hopes of seeing mating mandarinfish.
Biodiversity hotspot
The Philippines sits at the northern tip of the Coral Triangle, considered the global hotspot of marine biodiversity. Evidence for this moniker includes an impressive array of over 2,000 species of fish, over 600 species of coral, over 450 species of crustaceans and over 950 species of mollusks. In addition, the area contains natural terrain that supports six of the world’s seven species of sea turtles.
We encountered the occasional hawksbill sea turtle, though we primarily saw green sea turtles on nearly every dive along the walls and coral gardens. In our most prolific interaction, we saw a total of 16 turtles during a two-tank morning dive. One particularly cooperative green sea turtle posed for the camera while resting on a large plate coral. As our guide watched me take photos, he noticed that the turtle was being constrained by fishing line around its left front flipper and neck. Thankfully, he was able to remove the monofilament without harming the turtle. Hopefully, this will allow the turtle to live a much longer and healthier life.
Bohol
The island of Bohol has a plethora of topside attractions to enjoy, including views of one of the world’s smallest primates, the Philippine tarsier, as well as the famous Chocolate Hills—a unique geological formation of an estimated 1,268 to 1,776 individual grass-covered limestone/basalt domes that look like chocolate kisses when they turn brown in the dry season, thus giving them their name.
Closer to Anda, there are caves and caverns to explore, scenic hikes, ATV and zipline rides, river cruises, cultural tours, elaborately decorated churches, terraced rice fields, waterfalls, macaque monkeys and a colony of enormous bats. By day, the giant golden-crowned flying foxes roost upside down from mahogany tree branches in nearby Guindulman and depart at dusk to feed on figs and other fruits. Endemic to the Philippines, these endangered bats have a wingspan of 4.9 to 5.6ft (1.5 to 1.7m), making them one of the largest species of bats in the world. This particular community was only recently identified, and its existence was brought to the attention of the local bat conservation community, thanks to an enthusiastic and expertly knowledgeable guest.
Climate
The tropical climate of the Philippines is influenced by the amihan (“dry” northeast monsoon that typically blows from mid-November to April) and the habagat (“wet” southwest monsoon from May to October). The monsoons create roughly three seasons: the hot, dry summer from March to May, the rainy season from June to November and the cool, dry season from December to February. The air temperature in the Philippines averages 80°F (27°C) and ranges between 70-90°F (21-32°C) depending on the season and location. Water temperatures fluctuate accordingly between 78–84°F (26–29°C). I was comfortable in the cooler temperatures with a 3mm full wetsuit and a hooded vest, while my wife preferred the extra warmth of her 5mm full wetsuit.
Topside excursions
Kayaking. The Lamanoc Island Mystic Tour offers a unique blend of folklore and insights into centuries-old local customs, along with a kayak trek and a hike through the mangroves. This adventure begins on an elevated, and at times precarious, wooden walkway as you traverse a large stretch of coastal mangroves before climbing into a small wooden outrigger kayak for an assisted paddle across a shallow bay to Lamanoc Island.
Once back on dry land, a local guide leads the way through additional mangroves and forest trails to inspect several caves, an ancient graveyard, a fossilized giant clam and ancient red hematite wall paintings, each with a fascinating story to share. Based on the discovery of assorted archeological artifacts, Lamanoc Island is said to be the “cradle of civilization” for the entire island of Bohol.
Cave hike. Approximately an hour’s drive to the north and east of Anda—the last third of which was unpaved—is the small town of Marcelo. Here, I had the privilege of being one of the first tourists to step inside a massive cave that was not yet on the sightseeing map. The opening of the cave was easily 30 to 40ft (9 to 12m) in diameter, and the inner chamber was even more massive. At the back of the entrance chamber, there was a large opening to the jungle above, and beyond that, a lengthy tunnel winding into the mountain.
The rough dirt road inside was built by the Japanese during WWII. It was currently covered with bat guano from the thousands of small bats roosting on the ceiling. We followed the road through two long twists and turns but never reached the end, nor did we find any of the Japanese treasure that is rumored to have been left behind.
Can-umantad Falls. On our way back to the resort, we stopped to see Can-umantad Falls, the largest waterfall in Bohol, which is said to be 200ft (60m) tall. Guests can access the falls via a prolonged hike across a terraced rice field or by walking or riding down a steep paved road on the back of motorbikes. Recent rains had turned the falls into a raging torrent, so we decided it was safer to stop short of its base and opted for photos at an overlook.
Festive season
If you are lucky enough to travel to the Philippines around Christmas, you are in for a real treat! Decorations for the holiday are seemingly everywhere, as over 82 percent of the country’s more than 100 million residents are Catholic. Lights, trees and colorful banners are on display around homes, resorts and public buildings, along major streets and filling town squares. In Anda, local businesses constructed festive displays in the city park as part of a friendly decorating competition, with several arrangements using recycled materials and/or collected marine debris.
Underwater critters
On my previous trip, I was fortunate to have several first-time species encounters, and on this outing, I was excited to see my very first banded file snake, also known as a mangrove snake, foraging along the sandy bottom. These nonvenomous marine snakes are found in shallow waters, often near mangroves, due to their relatively uncommon ability to tolerate both fresh and saltwater. They grow to an average length of 3ft (1m), have small eyes, loose skin, tiny scales and can stay underwater for hours. I happened upon one on two separate dives, and both snakes were slow-moving, methodical while hunting and fascinating to observe.
For a trip that concentrated on topside adventures, my underwater critter list was still quite extensive, especially considering I only squeezed in ten dives over 3.5 days on the water. Looking back through my photographs, I captured five different species of clownfish, both giant and painted frogfish, multiple thorny seahorses, dozens of turtles, several scorpionfish and lionfish, a pair of yellow pygmy gobies, a spiny devilfish (my wife’s favorite), a very brazen fingered dragonet, multiple snails, nudibranchs, shrimps and crabs (some carrying eggs), the smallest cowry shell I had ever seen and an elusive wonderpus octopus moving across the sand. There were also a multitude of colors, patterns and textures displayed by feather stars, soft corals, sea urchins, starfish, bubble corals and sea cucumbers to help satisfy my artistic eye for abstract compositions.
Final thoughts
I was excited and grateful for the opportunity to return to Anda, and my experience far exceeded expectations yet again. The area has so much to offer divers and non-divers alike, with exhilarating topside and underwater adventures, all in a beautiful and tranquil, tucked-away corner of Bohol. I discovered new favorite dive sites, several above-water escapades and am already looking forward to my next visit. On your next visit to the Philippines, I highly recommend that you consider Anda. ■
Sources: wikipedia.org, magicresorts.online, cia.gov/the-world-factbook
Reference: [1] Refers to the 1987 American war comedy film Good Morning, Vietnam starring Robin Williams, directed by Barry Levinson.
The author would like to thank Magic Ocean Dive Resort (magicoceans.online) for serving as the gracious host on this adventure. The author would also like to thank Scubapro (scubapro.com) for their assistance with underwater dive gear.
