The Atlantic island of Madeira, located off the northwestern coast of Africa, is an oasis of rugged natural beauty both above and below the waves. With a rich cultural heritage and unique traditional cuisine, it has much to offer visitors. Brandi Mueller shares her adventure there.
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My first glimpse of Madeira from the plane was of jagged cliffs and lush green terrain against a dark blue backdrop. Although my knowledge of this Portuguese island was limited, I could not wait to explore it.
Located 967km (600m) southwest of Lisbon, the flight to the island took just under two hours, and we were now closer to Africa than Europe. The archipelago includes the islands of Madeira, Porto Santo, the Desertas, and the separate archipelago of the Savage Islands in the Atlantic Ocean. The island of Madeira is 740 sq km (286 sq mi) and has a population of just over 250,000 people.
These islands were first discovered in 1418 by two Portuguese captains exploring the coast of Africa, who were blown off course by a storm but safely landed on what they named Porto Santo (Holy Harbor) because of their safe arrival. It was revisited the following year, officially claimed by Portugal and settled after 1420. Then sailors noticed “a heavy black cloud” southwest of Porto Santo and soon discovered the larger, verdant island of Madeira. The islands are historically significant because they were the first territorial discovery during the Age of Exploration (from the 15th to the 17th centuries). However, it is generally accepted that the islands were known and visited long before Portuguese settlement.
When they settled the islands, the Madeirenses began subsistence farming and soon exported wheat and later sugar cane to the mainland. The capital city of Funchal also became a popular port of call on European trade routes, and tourism became popular among European aristocrats in the 18th and 19th centuries (and still is today). Many visited because the climate was said to have therapeutic effects. Madeira was also famous for its fortified wine.
When we landed, our driver was waiting to whisk us away to the northeastern side of the island to the Monte Mar Palace Hotel, where we would spend our first two nights. The drive took an hour and gave us a glimpse of the beautiful island. About halfway through the drive, it really struck me how nice the roads were, and there were multiple long tunnels that we drove through. I did not expect such an efficient and advanced infrastructure on such a small island. When I asked the driver about it, he told me that we were on a new highway that was completed in 2017. The ten-year project connected the island, allowing one to drive around the entire island and cut through the middle, making it much faster and more convenient to get around. What used to take hours can now be done in much less time.
Then we talked about the airport runway, which used to be one of the shortest in the world. It was extended in the 1980s and again in 2000. The latest extension involved a platform built partly over the sea with over a hundred 70m (230ft) high columns to support the runway.
Arriving at the Monte Mar Palace Hotel, I checked in and joined my fellow travelers on this adventure arranged by Portugal Dive for an Aperol spritz and charcuterie board of local meats and cheeses before dinner overlooking the ocean. We called it an early night to get ready for our first full day in Madeira.
Levadas
We started the morning with a jeep tour of the island that took us off-road into the forest. To help earn our lunch, we stopped for a short hike at the Levada do Rei. A levada is an aqueduct, and the island has a massive system throughout the entire island.
Farming was essential to the first settlers, and the island had very different climates in different parts. The northwest was very wet, but the southeast was very dry. The settlers needed to get water from the northwest to the southeast, so they built an intricate aqueduct system to carry water for agricultural needs.
Many levadas were cut into the mountains. The settlers also made tunnels; over 40km (25mi) of tunnels were cut. These are still in use today, supplying water to the southwestern parts of the island and providing hydroelectric power, but they are most popular for hiking.
Walkways were also built alongside the levadas so that people could access them and ensure that the aqueducts were kept clean and the water was flowing. These trails are still maintained today. While some are easy and relaxing walks, others are death-defying, narrow, steep paths that can even be dangerous in some areas. Since 2011, many improvements have been made to make these paths safer and to support the island’s popular hiking culture.
Levada do Rei was mostly flat and had a wide path (although it had a lot of puddles due to the recent rain). It took us deep into a green forest and, at the end, revealed an amazing view of the ocean. This sparked my interest in the hiking trails around the island, and further research revealed that Madeira was quite the place for hiking.
Feeling fit and energized, we headed to Quinta do Furão, a restaurant with one of the most fantastic views I have ever experienced while dining. Overlooking sheer cliffs and the ocean, we enjoyed a fantastic meal. We sampled mushroom risotto and steak, and I had to try the maracuja (passion fruit) mousse, which was excellent.
Back at the hotel, over dinner, we raved about the island’s beauty and discussed our next day’s plans for diving.
Dive center
Arriving at Scorpio Madeira dive center, I was happy to see Pedro Gomes again, whom I had met at the Diving Talks conference a few years ago. We had long conversations about the friendly groupers and whales of Madeira, and it was he who inspired me to want to dive in Madeira.
The dive shop was perfectly outfitted for everything we needed, with an outdoor area to wash and dry gear, a large room for showers and changing, and rental gear for anyone who needed it. We got our gear ready and carried it a short walk down to the dock to the dive boat that was waiting for us.
Diving
Baixa da Cruz. With only a short distance to go to the first dive site, Baixa da Cruz, we geared up on the boat and backrolled into the clear blue water. The temperature definitely woke me up; it was around 18°C (65°F). But I was mostly cozy in a 7mm wetsuit, hood and gloves. Looking down towards the seafloor, the first thing I saw was a massive rock structure that started at about 6m (20ft), looked like a mini mountain with a pointed top, and gradually spread out down to the sandy seafloor at about 40m (130ft). We swam around the rock, gradually descending deeper, looking at starfish attached to the rocks and hidden scorpionfish that were camouflaged until I flashed them with my camera strobe to reveal their deep red color. Occasionally, schools of smaller fish swam by, and a group of barracudas lingered just off in the distance.
Moving away from the large rock, we crossed a sand channel and ended up in a smaller rocky area with more fish and marine life. We then returned to where we started, completing our dive at the top of the mountain peak.
Badajeira. For our second dive, we went to Badajeira, the site of two shipwrecks from the 1800s. The steamship Forerunner was lost in 1854, and the steamship Newton in 1881. Not much remains intact, but the seafloor is covered with the wreckage of the ships. The Forerunner’s large boiler still stands out as an identifiable part of the ship.
We jumped in, and the visibility was crystal clear as far as I could see. There was a slight current (I had heard that this site could have a lot of current during certain tidal changes), and we made our way over a rocky ledge to a crack in the rocks. Below us, at about 20m (60ft), was the boiler. I got closer. Around and inside the boiler were tons of rusty-orange Atlantic chromis.
I was enjoying trying to photograph the many fish against the dark boiler with the crystal-clear blue water in the background when I looked up and saw our dive guide pointing adamantly at something behind me. His body language indicated that there was something incredible there. But what could it be? As I turned around, I was almost paralyzed with shock. There was a Mediterranean monk seal heading straight towards me.
It is hard to describe the feelings I had at that moment. I knew that Madeira was home to a very small population of this highly endangered seal. But they mostly live around the Desertas Islands, which are a designated nature reserve that does not allow visitation of any kind without very hard to obtain permits. I never thought in a million years that we would see one of the monk seals—especially not underwater.
I also have a history with monk seals. Having lived in Hawaii for many years, I was lucky to see their distant cousin, the Hawaiian monk seal (also endangered), both on land and underwater. They hold a special place in my heart, and I have always hoped to someday see a Mediterranean monk seal. A third species of monk seal, the Caribbean monk seal, is extinct.
Still in shock, I finally remembered to put up my camera and snap some photos. I only managed to get four shots as it flew by me. When it was too far away for good photos, I switched to video and got 40 seconds of the seal circling Arlindo Serrão, our host from Portugal Dive, before it swam away, never to be seen again.
We might as well have just ended the dive there. What could possibly top that? Still, my head was on a swivel for the next 30 minutes, looking up to the surface and below, behind and all around me, just in case it came back for another look at us. Continuing on, we swam over the ship wreckage and debris on the seafloor, flattened over the years by waves and currents.
Back on the boat, we were awestruck and giddy with excitement. Those remaining on the boat had also seen the monk seal on the surface for a few seconds as it came up for a breath of air.
Conservation
Back on land, we headed to a new hotel, the Sé Boutique Hotel, in Funchal. We did not have much time to spare, however, as we were meeting with Claudia Ribeiro of the IFCN (Instituto das Florestas e Conservacao/Institute of Forests and Nature Conservation). This amazing woman is at the forefront of environmental conservation and research in Madeira. She told us about some of the exciting projects taking place in the Madeira Archipelago and her immense experience in the island’s environmental efforts. Plus, our meeting was perfectly timed as she is involved in monk seal research and protection, and she answered all of our questions about our new favorite island resident.
It was evident that the monk seals were very near and dear to her heart. She told us that monk seals and bats were the islands’ only original mammalian residents. The seals were hunted to near extinction for commercial purposes in ancient times and, more recently, killed by fishermen in competition for fish. They sometimes got trapped in fishing nets, destroying them in their struggle to get free, which made them unpopular with the fishermen.
Today, the small population is fiercely protected. They are one of the most endangered pinnipeds in the world, with only around 700 individuals remaining today. They are found only in the Mediterranean Sea off Greece, Turkey and Croatia, around the Madeira archipelago and off Mauritania. The Madeira population has only 34 monk seals in total.
It was the monk seal that inspired some of the first efforts to establish a protected marine park around Madeira, and the monk seals were preserved even before the marine park was created. Talking to Claudia was fascinating. Originally from Madeira, you could sense her passion for her home and her endless hard work to preserve it.
Claudia knew the monk seal we saw by name, identifying it from my video. It was called Trinca-botes (Bites Boats) due to its habit of biting propellers as a juvenile. This male monk seal is one of only four adult males in the Madeira population. Yes, you read that right. There are only four males of breeding age in the entire population. I asked if other populations had ever intermingled. Apparently not. Genetic studies have shown that there is no interaction of monk seals from the other colonies, such as Mauritania, to the south. The monk seals do not travel that far.
Monk seals do not make it easy on themselves, either. Pregnant females like to give birth in inaccessible sea caves in late fall, when the seas are usually rough, meaning that large swells and waves could easily smash a newborn pup against the jagged rock walls inside the caves. They also return to the same caves to give birth, and the offspring will return to the same place to give birth to their young. So, from generation to generation, they continue to breed under these difficult conditions. It has been documented that only 29 percent of pups survive if born between September and January.
Luckily, today, the monk seal is highly protected and is a symbol of pride in Madeira. They grace the logos of many businesses around the islands, including the Porto Santo Line ferry, and they are featured on the Madeira coat of arms.
One topic we discussed at length was monk seals and tourism in Madeira. Obviously, the chance to see such an endangered animal could be used to sell tourism, but Claudia made it clear that using monk seals to sell tourism is a very bad idea. First of all, because sightings are so rare, it is very unlikely that anyone visiting the island will actually see one. Most individuals spend all their time around the Desertas Islands, which are off-limits to all but a few park rangers and authorized individuals with permits. But most importantly, because they are such a small and extremely vulnerable population, the last thing anyone wants is tourists trying to get selfies with monk seals.
And who knows what could happen if a disease is introduced or even one seal is harmed due to a bad decision by a tourist. Every monk seal in Madeira needs the utmost protection.
She also told us that the monk seals have sometimes fought back against tourists invading their space. With sharp teeth, the seals have, on several occasions, bitten people who were in their territory. One incident she described was of a monk seal sleeping in a cavern-like area with only one entrance and exit. Divers came in to take photos while blocking the exit. Imagine taking a nap in your own home, and suddenly, bright lights are flashing, and you cannot see through to your exit. It is understandable that the monk seal defended itself, as it felt threatened. Perhaps this is one of the reasons why these few animals continue to exist today.
For me, the experience of meeting the monk seal was moving, even if it was only for a minute. I felt so privileged to see one of these rare, endangered animals.
Garajau
The next day, we departed from the pier and headed west to dive a site called Garajau, known for its friendly giant groupers. About 15 minutes into the boat ride, I noticed that we had veered away from land. Looking at Pedro and our dive guide, Luciano, I could see that their eyes were fixed on something offshore in the distance. Looking in the same area, I saw a white buoy. But we were in the middle of deep water.
As we got closer, the boat stopped next to it, and Luciano reached in. It was a buoy with a lot of fishing line and net attached to it. Probably something from a fishing boat that had been broken or improperly discarded. The line and net could easily entangle marine life (or boat propellers), so Luciano began to heave the line up into the boat. It was covered in barnacles, and then we noticed little crabs scurrying everywhere. We tried to save as many as we could, catching them and throwing them back overboard. I was glad that Pedro and Luciano had spotted the net and had taken the time to retrieve it.
Continuing on our way, we soon reached the dive site, and the wind had picked up a little. It was the beginning of May and still very early in the diving season, which peaks in the summer in the northern hemisphere. Diving can be done year-round under ideal conditions, but summer has less wind, warmer water and often better visibility.
As I backrolled off the boat, I noticed that the visibility was noticeably less than the day before, but that was fine. It gave the water a darker, mystical feeling, with rays of light penetrating from the surface. I could see rock formations that looked like stacked boulder-like structures.
Unfortunately, the groupers did not want to play. I saw one hiding under a rock, and it allowed me to take a few photos before it swam away. But there were other fish, including colorful parrotfish, many trumpetfish and, at the end of the dive, a school of small barracudas.
Returning to the surface, we were greeted by sunshine but more wind. Leaving Garajau for our next dive site, we rounded a corner of the island that had sheltered us, and the seas got quite bumpy. Conceding that conditions were not great for our next dive, we decided to call it a day and headed back to shore.
Scorpio Madeira also offers snorkeling trips, dive training and daily whale- and dolphin-watching tours. These tours often include incredible sightings of many different species, including pilot whales, spotted dolphins, and even the occasional monk seal.
Fine art and good food
Back in Funchal, I spent some time wandering around the adorable Sé Boutique Hotel. With art everywhere, it was fantastic to walk around and look at all the photos and paintings. The rooftop bar was a nice place to chill and overlook the city. It was also decorated with flamingos, astroturf and signs saying things like, “The right place at the right time,” which seemed to fit our monk seal experience perfectly.
We had dinner at the hotel’s restaurant, and I swore to myself that I would only have a small meal because of all the amazing food I had been eating on this trip. But once again, I ended up with a three-course meal worth raving about. After a soup starter, I opted for a salad of baked goat cheese covered in honey and walnuts on a bed of fresh arugula and cherry tomatoes. And I could not say no to a lovely glass of Portuguese red wine or a dessert of passion fruit gelato.
Hiking two peaks
In what seems to be typical fashion for me, I decided to change my flight and stay an extra day. After our first levada hike, I saw pictures of a stairway leading straight up a mountain peak. Digging further with an online search, I read that the trail was quite famous and connected two peaks, Pico do Arieiro and Pico Ruivo, the highest point on the island at 1,862m (6,109ft). It is probably one of the most popular hikes on the island, with many buses offering one-way drop-offs and pick-ups at the end of another trail, allowing for a 10km, four-hour hike that crosses the two peaks. As I was changing my flights, the weather forecast looked perfect, but as the days got closer, the weather forecast showed a higher and higher percentage of the chance of rain. But plans were already changed, and I was going.
Having bid goodbye to my travel friends the night before and possibly staying up a little too late, morning came too early. It was about an hour’s drive from Funchal to the starting point, and when we arrived, there were a lot of people there. Some, like me, were setting off for the hike; some had come just to see Pico do Arieiro at the viewpoint, which was just a short walk from the car park; and others were already returning from a sunrise hike. I would start my hike by going to the top of Pico do Arieiro, continue to Pico Ruivo, and then go a bit further down to another car park and pick-up point.
I set out under partly cloudy conditions, but blue skies could be seen between whispy white clouds that felt close enough to touch. You could not wipe the smile off my face as I began the hike. It looked like I was walking into a dream floating in the clouds. A yellow brick road (maybe more white than yellow, and stone, not brick) led the way up the middle of a mountain. On either side were views of lush green foliage as far down as the eye could see.
Wildflowers of purple, white and yellow dotted the sides of the trail, and I was fully impressed with how well-maintained the trail was. There were handrails, ropes and wire lines to hold on to. The trail was well-marked with signs and distances. There were sturdy stairs and ladders in some places. And tunnels! I was so excited to walk through several tunnels and so glad that I had brought a real light and not just used the light on my smartphone like I saw so many others doing.
But the clouds continued to roll in and, for a while, created a rainbow in the valley. I made my way through a tunnel, and on the other side, the view had turned to a white fog. Nothing could be seen too far in front of me. Then the rain started. I had about 45 minutes of dry hiking, and the rest of the four-hour hike was in steady rainfall that got progressively heavier. I guess that is why it was so green and so many flowers grew here. I could not help but laugh, though. Even soaked all the way through, the hike was still beautiful.
In some areas, I was on the edge of a cliff. Due to the mist, I could not tell how far up the mountain I was. So, when I reached the highest point of Pico Ruivo (as confirmed by the sign), I would not have known it because I could not see anything. The photos I had seen on Instagram showed a 360-degree view of the island, and on some days, you could even see Porto Santo Island, 70km in the distance. But not on this day. I will just have to come back someday to see that view.
What I found most amazing was that there was no charge for this hike (or any hike on Madeira). There was no national park permit or entrance fee required, and it was such an incredibly well-maintained trail. I never felt unsafe, or that the trail was crumbling, or that I was in any danger, even though, for much of the hike, I was on the edge of a very steep precipice. I would love to return to Madeira to experience more of the many trails the island has to offer.
The next morning, as I headed to the airport from Funchal, the sun was just coming up and a deep red-orange glow was in the sky, reflected on the water. Dark clouds embodied the island, but beyond the land, looking to the sea, the sky was clear. Just before arriving, I spotted a rainbow in the morning light. I could not help but think what a lovely island Madeira is, from above and below, and I look forward to returning. ■
Special thanks go to Arlindo Serrão, Portugal Dive, Visit Madeira and Scorpio Madeira.
