When you think of Sweden, IKEA, Volvo and Greta Thunberg might be the first things that come to mind. But think again, because Sweden—and more specifically Västmanland, Dalarna and Värmland—offers some of the best diveable mines in the world. Constantin Ene and Martina Utzinger take us on a tour of one of them: the Långban Mine.
Diving in the Långban Mine offers a thrilling combination of history, geology, and underwater exploration, making it a must-visit for adventurous divers. Photo by Constantin Ene.
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Factfile
Other Diveable Mines in Sweden
In addition to Långban Mine, Sweden has several notable mines that are diveable, including Sala Silvergruva in Västmanland, Äventyrsgruvan in Dalarna and Nordmarks Gruvor and A-Gruvan in Värmland.
Västmanland
Sala Silvergruva (Sala Silver Mine), which operated from the 15th century until 1962, reaches a depth of 318m. The diving level begins at 155m below the surface, with a consistently chilly water temperature of 2°C, making Sala Silvergruva the coldest diveable mine in Sweden. However, as of summer 2024, the mine has been temporarily closed for extensive maintenance.
Dalarna
Another top location for mine diving in Sweden is Äventyrsgruvan (Adventure Mine) in Tuna Hästberg. This mine, reaching a depth of 500m, offers open waters, dry mining halls and tunnels. The diving level is located 80m below the surface, with an all-year-round water temperature of 4°C.
Tuna Hästberg caters to both trained cave divers and recreational divers, offering a cool wellness area with a sauna and a natural refreshment pool to relax in after a dive. For non-diving visitors, highlights include a concert hall for music events, an underground suspension bridge and a Via Ferrata system.
Värmland
The Nordmarks Gruvor (Nordmark Mines) in Filipstad municipality, as well as A-Gruvan (The A-Mine), offer accessible, developed dive sites. ■
The Långban Gruva (Långban Mine) in the municipality of Filipstad in Värmland was opened in the 16th century and closed its doors in 1972. Located in Långbans Gruv och Kulturby (Långban Mining and Culture Village), the mine’s dive base is now operated by Långbans Dyksällskap (Långban Dive Club).
Divers can expect crystal-clear water with visibility up to 40-50m. A constant water temperature of 6°C throughout the year makes the mine literally a “hot spot”, since most other mines in Sweden are only 2-4°C. However, Långban is not only a dream for divers but also for (amateur) geologists, as it is one of the most mineral-rich sites in the world. Over 270 minerals have been found to occur here, including the locally found Långbanite.
History
Situated in Värmland, within the municipality of Filipstad, Långban lies approximately four hours northeast of Göteborg and about four hours west of Stockholm by car. This small village has a rich history of iron ore extraction, dating back to the 16th century, with commercial operations beginning in the mid-17th century. By the late 18th century, mining activities expanded to include manganese ore and dolomite, alongside iron ore.
In the early days of mining, the technique of fire setting was employed. This method involved heating up the rock to make it fragile and easier to break down, resulting in the distinctive “drop shape” of the tunnels, which can still be observed during dives at shallow levels in the early mining and working areas.
The miners carved deep shafts and tunnels into the rock to access these valuable resources. Horses were initially used to transport the iron ore from the tunnels in bags and lorries. Later, the miners installed rails to improve efficiency.
The introduction of dynamite in 1895 further enhanced the mining process and made it possible to reach depths up to 365m. Iron ore extracted from Långban found global use in railway construction, arms manufacturing and, most notably, in the construction of the iconic Eiffel Tower in Paris.
Although iron ore and manganese production ceased in the 1950s due to the mining crisis, dolomite mining continued until the 1970s. The mine finally closed in 1972, leading to its gradual flooding from the surrounding lakes once the pumps were turned off.
Throughout the centuries, Långban played a pivotal role in Swedish industrial history. Today, it serves as both a residence for former miners and their families—about 60 people live in the small village—and as a cultural site with a museum. The Värmlands Museum, headquartered in Karlstad and Filipstad, offers a variety of exhibitions and activities during the summer months.
Nature enthusiasts will find delight in the Tibergs Udde Nature Reserve, named after Hugo Viktor Tiberg, a former manager at the Långban Mining Company. Tiberg’s keen interest in natural sciences led to the discovery of seven different orchid species within the nature reserve, along with a remarkably diverse flora native to the region.
Cultural explorers have their own attractions to enjoy. Svens Kino, which offers a nostalgic atmosphere, screens historical films with contemporary themes during the summer season.
Långban stands as a testament to Sweden’s industrial heritage, inviting divers and history enthusiasts alike to explore its underwater and topside treasures. Its legacy extends beyond its mineral wealth and diving allure, reaching into the realm of innovation and engineering through one of its most notable figures: John Ericsson.
John Ericsson: A pioneer from Långban
John Ericsson (1803-1889), a notable inventor, was born in Långban. After serving as a surveyor in the Swedish military, Ericsson moved to England in 1826 to pursue a career as an inventor. It was there that he innovated his notable screw propeller design, which outperformed the common steam-driven paddle wheels of the era. Despite presenting his innovative work to the British Admiralty, who were sceptical of new technology, he faced resistance.
Seeking a more encouraging atmosphere, Ericsson moved to New York. In collaboration with Captain Robert Stockton from the US Navy, they constructed the USS Princeton, an innovative, propeller-driven ship, which set sail on its initial journey from Alexandria, Virginia, on 27 February 1844.
In the 1850s, amidst hostilities between France and England, Ericsson offered his designs of an armoured warship to the French, who turned them down. These designs gained attention again in 1861, during the American Civil War. President Abraham Lincoln supported the construction of the USS Monitor, completed in January 1862, featuring the inaugural rotating gun turret. It partook in the pivotal Battle of Hampton Roads in March 1862, leaving a lasting impact on naval architecture and warfare tactics, despite the battle’s indecisive outcome.
The USS Monitor was later sent to assist Union forces along the James River but capsized near Cape Hatteras on 31 December 1862, resulting in the loss of 16 crew members. The wreck was located in 1973 by John G. Newton’s team from Duke University and became the first designated US Navy sanctuary in 1975. A legal battle later emerged, led by historian and diver Gary Gentile, to open the site for technical diving.
John Ericsson continued his work on armoured ships and other inventions until he died in New York City on 8 March 1889. His innovations, particularly in naval engineering, earned him the status of a national hero in the United States. His remains were transported back to Sweden and laid to rest in Filipstad, just 20km (12mi) from his birthplace in Långban.
The dive base
The dive base in Långban, as previously mentioned, is operated by Långbans Dyksällskap in collaboration with the Värmlands Museum. All parties involved work with exceptional dedication, driven by a passion for offering an outstanding diving experience while concurrently preserving the archaeological structures.
In 2005, the first dives were conducted in the flooded mine shafts of Långban. Initially, divers used to enter the mine system from Storgruvan. Subsequently, in coordination with the museum in Långban, the entrance point was relocated to Kollegiegruvan (The Collegium Mine), where a platform facilitating easier dive access was constructed.
In the same year, Långbans Dyksällskap was established in partnership with the Värmlands Museum. Presently, the association hosts around 100 active members, conducts approximately 1,500 dives and accumulates an astonishing 3,000 dive hours annually.
Significant improvements in infrastructure include the acquisition of a new and larger compressor, expanded gas logistics, including an O2 and helium bank, as well as a dryroom for dive equipment and drysuits. Furthermore, investments were made in essential safety equipment, such as a first response kit and an oxygen emergency kit. All these improvements have notably enhanced safety and accessibility compared to the early beginnings of diving in Långban.
Optimal safety
Over time, the entrance point of the first dive platform has been expanded to double its size and is now equipped with kitting-up benches, shelves and stairs. Additionally, light sources have been installed to facilitate optimal conditions for both pre- and post-dive preparations, as well as for comfortable entry and exit, particularly during the dark Swedish winter months.
A big whiteboard has also been assembled on the diving platform. It serves as a dive planner, where notes pertaining to dive teams, entry time, maximum depth and planned dive time can be recorded and visualised.
Habitats where extended decompression times can be spent in a semi-dry environment were built. To enhance the experience during long decompression stops, it is possible to bring an iPad for entertainment. Communication to the surface is provided by a slate installation, and there is a communication link from the habitat to the surface.
New members
Under the leadership of Tomas Gusten and the safety group of Långbans Dyksällskap, stringent rules to ensure the optimal safety of all divers have been developed. New members can easily register online at gruvdyk.se, submit their dive training certificates and even book accommodation at Ericsson Gård (Ericsson Farm). The payment of an annual fee is mandatory for membership and access to dive events in the mine. A Facebook group called “Gruvdykning i Långban” (Mine Diving in Långban) has also been established for members of the Långbans Dyksällskap. Prior to the initial dive, all new members receive a land tour by the cave keyholder to gain an understanding of where they will find themselves underwater later on.
There are still two well-preserved mine shaft buildings on land: the Loka Shaft and the Nya Shaft (New Shaft), which are among the main attractions on land.
Following the tour through the mining area, the first dive for new members is always guided by a cave keyholder, for safety reasons. Subsequently, they are permitted to independently conduct dives on the first level, at depths of 20 to 30m.
To dive the deeper areas of the mine, a certain number of dives/dive time must be completed at the shallower levels, and each diver must electronically log their dives to unlock further access to deeper levels. This happens in accordance with their individual dive training, which dictates the maximum dive depth.
Dive community
The dive community in Långban is both dedicated and dynamic. Many of the activities and enhancements result from the voluntary efforts of members who share not only a passion for diving but also for the preservation and exploration of this unique cultural heritage. This dedication ensures that Långban Mine remains an attractive destination for technical divers, while raising awareness of the importance of preserving historical sites.
The future of technical diving in Långban appears very promising. Both safety measures and infrastructure for divers continue to be optimised, and the association plans to expand its activities further. This includes conducting regular courses and training specifically for technical diving in flooded mines, also known as Mine Diver Courses.
Furthermore, ongoing project diving and exploration missions aim to explore previously unmapped sections of the mines. Exploration teams have reached depths of up to 160m and installed new guidelines.
Detailed maps
An important aspect of the safety culture within Långban Dyksällskap is the creation and regular updating of detailed maps of the mine system. These maps are the result of meticulous documentation by project divers, who gather new information during each dive. They are essential not only for planning project dives but also as a crucial tool for training new divers and furthering the education of experienced club members.
Dive events
Dive events in Långban primarily occur on weekends, allowing working individuals and divers travelling from distant locations to participate in these events. Långbans Dyksällskap has established its own group of cave keyholders, who are responsible for organising and conducting these dive events.
The regularly organised events are more than just fun dives. They also foster a sense of community and strengthen bonds within the diving community by combining recreational and project diving.
Långbans Dyksällskap promotes a comprehensive understanding and deep appreciation for the historical and natural heritage of Långban. Each dive contributes to the ongoing exploration and protection of this unique underwater monument.
The involvement of the Värmlands Museum is vitally important for maintaining dive activities in Långban. Through regular events and presentations highlighting the cultural and historical importance of the site, the museum significantly contributes to the local cultural landscape. Moreover, all activities are essential for securing municipal funding, which supports the continued existence and development of this exceptional diving base. Through valuable collaboration, Långban is ensured to remain an important historical and tourist site.
The Värmlands Museum maintains its own exhibition on operations in the Långban Mine, showcasing, among other things, photos and underwater films. Visual documentation and film are continuously provided by divers, now including three-dimensional photogrammetry and surveys of the mine.
Diving Långban Mine
Embarking on a dive in the Långban Mine is a unique adventure that begins at the entry point, where divers descend into a world of historical significance and geological wonder. At a depth of 6 metres, you will find a rock plateau, an ideal spot for depositing decompression gas. This area also houses two underwater habitats, accommodating two to four divers each, allowing for comfortable and dry decompression stops.
For deep dives starting at 75m, significant decompression times can quickly accumulate. The habitats greatly enhance safety by minimising risks such as hypothermia due to extended decompression obligations or in the event of a flooded drysuit. Additional habitats are located at 15m, with another planned for the 12m stop.
After depositing your deco gas at 6 metres, you follow the mainline deeper into the mine. At 21m, you will find a specially installed deco bar where you can leave the next set of decompression gas. From there, the permanent mainline splits, offering routes to the Loka Shaft or to the Kollegiegruva. Alternatively, you can jump to the 55m level. All diving levels (21-40-55-75-90m) are connected by jumps or permanent guidelines.
Navigating to the Loka Shaft involves passing through a narrow section that rises steeply from 27 to 20m. Despite the challenge, this ascent is manageable, although the return journey, diving headfirst through the steep section, can be more difficult.
Continuing along the mainline, you reach the Loka Shaft, with various jump opportunities to side shafts, such as the Psychedelic Room or the Water Tower. In emergencies, there is an ascent option to the surface in Storgruvan (The Big Mine).
Descending the Loka Shaft, you will reach depths of up to 150m. At 21m, a wooden platform with an old ore cart leaning against the wall provides a popular photo opportunity and is one of the mine’s main attractions.
From this point, the mainline leads to various side tunnels and a circuit through Krubban (The Manger) back to the platform again with the ore cart. Numerous exploration opportunities abound, such as the Nya Shaft or the Hellraiser Room, known for its numerous chains hanging from the ceiling.
The route via the Nya Shaft to Dan’s Room, along an old rail system, descends into a side tunnel at a maximum depth of 43m. Here, the footprints of miners from a long time ago can still be seen. A relaxed dive by swimming to Dan’s Room typically takes two hours for a round trip. At the end of this dive, one must expect a longer decompression time of 30 to 50 minutes, depending on the gas mixture used. The total distance from the entry point at the platform to Dan’s Room is approximately 900m round trip.
A dive on the Krubban circuit can be conducted at a nitrox depth of up to 30m in 60-70 minutes. It is crucial to leave the mine in the condition you found it, to preserve the unique atmosphere of the old shafts, tunnels and vaults, so as not to incur the wrath of Gruvfruan.
Gruvfruan, or The Lady of the Mine, was a spirit that walked in the mines. She had control over the mountain, and if the miners treated her with the respect she deserved, she would lead them to the rich ore veins. The miners who denigrated Gruvfruan and did not believe in her existence fared poorly and were often victims of accidents.
Diving in the Långban Mine offers a thrilling combination of history, geology and underwater exploration, making it a must-visit for adventurous divers. ■
