A small volcanic island in the Portuguese archipelago of the Azores, Graciosa offers a vibrant escape to a destination with beautiful nature, rich culture and delicious cuisine, as well as intriguing wrecks, marine life, caverns, caves and springs. Brandi Mueller tells us about her adventure there.
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The idea of the Azores has always conjured up images of dreamy, windswept islands of vivid green set against a backdrop of stormy blue waters. With limited knowledge of diving in the area, I had only heard of big animal sightings off Santa Maria Island during a very short season. But what about the rest? Isolated in the northeastern Atlantic, these islands had to be home to something spectacular, so I was keen to visit.
There is no direct route to Graciosa, the second smallest of the nine islands in the Azores. With a population of only around 400 people, Graciosa, which translates to “graceful” or “enchanted,” is often referred to as the “White Island.” The first stop on my journey to get to the island from the United States was Lisbon, the capital of Portugal.
Upon arrival, I met with Arlindo Serrão, the founder and owner of Portugal Dive and the creator of Diving Talks, and sampled some pastel de nata, a Portuguese custard or egg tart, with coffee that was far better than anything I could get back home. I was thrilled to see Arlindo again and excited that he would be my host and dive buddy to explore Graciosa, an island even he had never been to. Arlindo had extensive knowledge and experience of the Azores, but this island had eluded him, so he was as eager to visit as I was.
As we waited for our next flight to Ponta Delgada, the capital of the Azores, we learned that the weather was less than favorable and there would be a delay. Flights to these windswept islands, isolated for hundreds of miles in all directions, are often subject to weather delays, especially during the winter months. We were visiting in May, a little early for the main tourist season, which runs from June to August, and Arlindo warned me of how common delays and cancellations would be in the off-season, especially to Graciosa. He said that people who live in the Azores are used to being stuck there for a while if weather conditions do not allow an exit.
Luckily for us, after a few hours, we were airborne for the two-and-a-half-hour flight. The Azores are one of two autonomous regions of Portugal (Madeira is the other) located less than 1,000 miles (1,250km) west of the mainland. This flight actually took me backward from the direction I came. I later learned that there are a few direct flights from the US East Coast to Ponta Delgada, and I tucked that information in the back of my mind for future planning because I could already tell that I wanted to come back and see more of these mystical islands.
São Miguel Island
As our plane touched down, raindrops slid across our small windows, and the sky was an ominous gray. It was clear why the flight had been delayed. While we had made it to our destination, my luggage had not. As the flight departed Lisbon, an announcement informed passengers that some bags had been removed due to weight issues caused by the weather. It was just my luck that it was my luggage that was removed. No worries, though. Our diving plans were still a few days and another island away—plenty of time for my luggage to catch up with me and for the weather to improve. By this point, I was exhausted from traveling and ready to just find a pillow for my head.
After checking into the Hotel Marina Atlântico, I decided to skip dinner and instead visit a nearby grocery store to pick up a bottle of local wine and some Azores cheese and crackers for a quick snack before going to bed early. I sat outside on my balcony overlooking the Pacific Ocean, dry from the rain but watching it come down just beyond as the gray light of day faded into night.
After catching up on some much-needed sleep, I awoke to a still gray sky, but it seemed the weather was improving a bit. Still in my travel clothes, I met Arlindo in the lobby for a tour of São Miguel. When researching the island, I had read that the rainy season lasts ten months a year, with only mid-June to mid-August being “drier,” but you could still expect rain on a third of the days during those two months. Good thing I brought rain gear… albeit in my yet-to-arrive luggage. Nevertheless, the inside of our Big Blue Tours bus was warm and dry as we set off to see some of the incredible highlights of this still geothermally active island.
Gorreana. Our first stop was Europe’s oldest and currently only active tea plantation, Gorreana. We wandered through the facility, which is basically a working museum. During parts of the year, you can see the tea being processed. We tasted several types of tea, including black and green, and, of course, I purchased some to take home.
We attempted to visit several viewpoints but were met with thick, gray fog at each one. I could only imagine how beautiful they could be, so these views were added to my list of reasons to return. However, the dark and gloomy skies did not detract from the vibrant, lush beauty of the island’s foliage. In fact, the overcast skies seemed to highlight the many shades of green and the colorful wildflowers that accented the scene with bright purples, oranges, reds and pinks along the roads to the hills and valleys of the island.
São Miguel and many of the islands of the Azores still have geothermal activity. The islands are located where the North American, Eurasian and Nubian tectonic plates meet, which explains the volcanic origin and activity.
We then headed to the Furnas Valley. The area is a dormant volcanic crater, and although it has not erupted since 1630, geothermal activity continues.
Unique cuisine. Throughout Portugal, stew is a popular comfort food, and variations of this otherwise common dish can represent a place. The stews have evolved to be slightly different depending on where you are in Portugal and who is making them. (Your mother’s will always be the best.)
In São Miguel, they have a rather creative way of cooking the stew, taking advantage of the island’s geothermal properties. Usually made in a large pot and layered with meat and vegetables, the stew is slowly cooked underground for six hours, using the heat generated by the earth to cook it to perfection. Before lunch, we were lucky enough to watch the restaurant staff pull a pot of the day’s stew out of the bubbling and steaming ground, and shortly thereafter, we were in their restaurant, sipping glorious Portuguese wine and feasting on melt-in-your-mouth chicken, beef, sausage, potatoes, carrots, cabbage and more. I might have mentioned that I was not really that hungry, but it did not matter, as the plate—or should I say platter—laid in front of us took up most of the table, piled high with the glorious goods.
Furnas. We continued to explore the village of Furnas, where the locals have built fountains for the mineral springs, making it easy to collect the water. I tasted a few, many of which are believed to have different healing properties, and each tasted different. Many had different colors, from clear to yellow and red, and some even seemed carbonated, like sparkling water. As we walked through the village, there were various bubbling muds, steaming waters, and warm areas. In one thermal pool (far too hot for people to bathe in), women boiled corn to sell, and the smell of sulfur permeated the air.
Queijadas da Vila do Campo do Morgado. Our last stop of the day was to sample the queijadas of São Miguel. Like pastel de nata on mainland Portugal, São Miguel has its own version of egg tarts or custard cakes. We stopped at Queijadas da Vila do Campo do Morgado to watch them being made and, with a strong espresso, sample the melt-in-your-mouth cakes, originally created by nuns in the 17th century.
Ponta Delgada
The next morning brought sunshine, and I got up early to walk around Ponta Delgada. As I wandered the cobblestone streets of this lovely harbor town, I admired the brightly colored boats on the waterfront and the winding, narrow streets. I visited the Forte de Sao Bras, a fortress built in 1552 that is now a noteworthy military history museum that allows you to walk around the fort, both on top (a lookout for pirates) to take in the views and inside, through underground passageways that currently house relics of the past.
That afternoon, we boarded another plane to take us to our final destination, Graciosa.
Graciosa Island
The Azores stretch 370 miles (600km) from southeast to northwest and are divided into three groups. The island of Graciosa lies at the northern point of the central group. Arriving late in the afternoon, Arlindo and I were escorted to our hotel for the week, the Inatel. This large property overlooking the ocean was actually the first and only hotel on the island, but under different management.
We settled in and took a short walk to the nearby Snack-Bar Clube Naval (Naval Club Snack Bar). While the name was unassuming, the restaurant was charming. It was built of light-colored wood with many windows overlooking the harbor and had a spacious patio. The food was even more divine than the adorable dining room, starting with a plate of local cheeses and meats, steak and local seasonal vegetables and ending with a decadent chocolate mousse.
Diving
Exploring some of the land-based highlights of the Azores was fantastic, but it was finally time to check out what I had come for—the diving. Albano and Fátima Mesquita, owners of DivinGraciosa, had picked us up at the airport (and given us the epic recommendation for the restaurant the night before) and met us in the morning to take us to the boat harbor for our first dives. We did not have far to go before we were parked next to a small building that had tanks, gear and everything we needed for the day. Just steps away was the boat waiting for us.
I could hardly remember the gray sky that greeted us upon arrival in the Azores, for it was now a bluebird day with clear skies and sunshine. We loaded the boat and set off, not going very far before arriving at our first dive site, Baixa da Senhora da Guia.
Baixa da Senhora da Guia. A rocky pinnacle rising from the bottom, there was a platform at about 20 to 30ft (3 to 10m) and all sorts of fish swimming around. We explored a swim-through at about 50ft (16m), and inside was a large black coral bush and dusky groupers. The water was a bit chilly, 63°F (17°C), but I was mostly cozy in my 7mm wetsuit and hood. I did miss my drysuit a little, though. The first dive was not bad for a check-out dive, and then we headed back to the harbor to do our surface interval on land while changing out tanks.
Our second dive was also nearby, and it was another neat rock formation covered in marine flora. Purplish-maroon algae grew on the rocks like a field of wheat, swaying back and forth in unison with the movement of the water. Within the purple field were many colorful wrasses, including ornate and rainbow wrasses. I spotted a few nudibranchs and some camouflaged scorpionfish that turned bright red in the light of my strobes. A large school of bright yellow cow bream was hanging out near the top of the rock wall, and as we circled the pinnacle, gradually getting shallower, we saw them with each circle.
Santa Cruz da Graciosa
One of my favorite things to do in a new place is to visit a grocery store. I know it sounds silly, but I like to see what is on offer and keep an eye out for local products (which are likely to be less expensive at a local grocery store than at tourist establishments). I set out on a walk from our hotel to the town of Santa Cruz da Graciosa, the capital of Graciosa. The paved road meandered along the ocean but was lined on both sides with lava rock walls several feet high.
Beyond those rock walls, just a few minutes from the hotel, were goats and cows staring at me in wonder as if they knew I was a foreigner. A few cars passed me, as did one other person on foot, but otherwise, the island felt quite empty. It was still early in the tourist season, but I had heard that during the summer months, the island multiplies its population several times over with visitors.
As I got closer to the center of town, the streets narrowed, and buildings sprang up. In the center of town were two massive pools of water. Curious, I later found out that they had been built many years ago to collect water and could be used by anyone when water was scarce, one for livestock and one for people. Cafés and restaurants surrounded this area, with tables and chairs spread out on the sidewalks in the sunshine. I found my grocery store nearby.
I stocked up (perhaps too much) on cheese made in Graciosa, and I found a local spirit called Angelica and bought a bottle to try later. The island has always been an agricultural place, as good soil and a mixed humid subtropical and Mediterranean climate led to a productive agriculture and wine industry, with wheat, barley, wine and spirits being exported to other Azores islands and back to mainland Portugal since the 16th century. Today, fruit, wine, beef, dairy cattle, cheese and other dairy products are still produced. Fishing is also a major export, along with tourism.
As I walked, I saw beautiful white and red windmills that seemed out of place in Portugal. I understood later that their presence was due to the influence of early Flemish settlers.
I met Arlindo for dinner. One thing that has not disappointed me on any of my trips to Portugal is the food, and for the most part, fine dining was financially reasonable (even when ordering wine and dessert). And so, another amazing meal with wonderful company was enjoyed.
Caves and wrecks
Our second day of diving was another beautiful, clear day. Albano from DivinGraciosa took us to Gruta do Carapacho. Heading southwest from the harbor, we traveled about 20 minutes closer to the town of Carapacho and onward to an islet some distance off the main island of Graciosa. There was quite a swell. As I watched the white waters crashing against the islet, I wondered if the dive staff was going to call off the dive. As beautiful as the sky was, the ocean was a little choppy.
Our plan was to go into a cavern that turned into a cave inside the island. As the dive guides gave us the dive briefing, I pictured myself crashing into the rock walls of this island while trying to get into the cavern, but after the briefing and gearing up, our captain expertly navigated us closer to the island and the cavern entrance. We back-rolled in, with the command to make a negative entry and meet underwater to prevent the surf from separating us.
We did just that. After about 15ft (3m), I could still feel the swell lifting us up and pulling us back down a few feet, but it was much calmer underwater. With “okay” hand signals all around, we descended a bit more and started swimming toward the island, and soon a black crack was visible. As I got closer, I could see that it was not too narrow and was the length of several people in width. We went in.
Lobsters and scorpionfish were on the sheer walls of the cavern, and as we continued inside the islet, the walls gradually came closer together, and our path became narrower. The further we went, the narrower it got, and the more I could feel the swell. But the cavern was incredible. I wanted to keep going and exploring. I turned around to check on my dive buddies, and Albano made the hand signal for us to turn around and head back out.
What I saw behind him really took my breath away. The exit of the cave was the most perfect shade of blue, bright and inviting, leading us back out into the day. As we all turned to return to the light, I saw Arlindo in the perfect position for a photo. I snapped a photo, loving the composition of him in the center of the cave opening, with the rock walls on either side. I summoned him back to swim through that spot again so that I could snap a few more photos. It is not often that you get a fantastic trip leader and dive model in one.
I did not want to exit this stunning view, but everyone else had, so I followed them out. We continued our dive along the islet, and the rocks and boulders were covered with life. Several schools of fish swam by, including a large group of barracudas and several large tunas. Returning to the surface, we were all in awe of the beauty of Carapacho Cave, and Arlindo and I agreed that we would like to go back and explore further inside (perhaps on a day with less swell). Such an unexpected, exquisite site.
Terceirense wreck. Albano had been telling us about the Terceirense wreck since we arrived. I love wrecks even more than I love caves, so even though we had already planned to dive the wreck the next morning, we decided it was worth two dives and made our second dive of the day there. Returning to a spot very close to the harbor from which we had departed, we arrived at the Terceirense wreck.
The Terceirense was a 130ft (40m) cargo ship that transported goods to Graciosa and other islands. In 1968, in bad weather, the ship struck a rock and sank; no lives were lost. At a perfect dive depth, the wreck lies about 60ft (20m) on the sand and is broken into two main pieces with flattened remains in between. I jumped in with the dive guide. Protected by the nearby harbor, conditions were calm, and there was no swell like on the previous dive.
With crystal clear conditions, I could see the stern from the moment we put our heads underwater. We were soon joined by a school of amberjack that stayed with us for the entire dive. We headed toward the well-preserved stern section, and I could see the prominent propellor as we made our way around the stern. The shallowest point of the wreck was around 40ft (12m). I examined the top of the hull, which had the same purple marine algae growing on it that we had seen at our first dive site, as well as a scorpionfish hiding within it and fish darting around inside the wreck. An eel poked its head out of a section of the ship. We moved toward the bow, over wreckage closer to the seafloor, and made a lap around the site, observing more small fish and ever-present amberjacks.
Back on the boat, I was excited to return to the wreck the next day and decided to switch to my macro lens to capture some of the smaller life on the wreck.
Diving Day 3
We returned to the Terceirense wreck as planned. As it turned out, going with my macro lens was not a bad idea, as the visibility was not nearly as good as the day before. The current had died down (which is much better for macro), suggesting that we were just diving on a different tide and that this tide played a role in the visibility.
While the others were zooming around to see the whole ship, I slowed down and noticed several large yellow and orange tube worms that looked like feathers swaying with the movement of the water. I also saw a dusky grouper partially concealed within the wreck, with just its head sticking out. I managed to get two shots off before the fish got spooked and swam away. A few eels were playing the same game, with their tails tucked into the pipes of the ship and only their heads peeking out at me.
I found a few nudibranchs and many small, colorful wrasses swimming over the hull of the ship. There were bristle worms and scorpionfish. On the seafloor, several flounders blended perfectly with the sand. I could have spent multiple dives shooting macro, but I was starting to feel the cold seeping into my wetsuit, and our bottom time also suggested that we should start heading toward the surface.
Ferreiro de Fora. For our second dive, Albano took us about a half-hour drive north around the island to a dive site very close to our hotel. It was a little rough (again, not quite the ideal time of year) but totally worth it. The Ferreiro de Fora dive site was known for its dusky groupers. It was another underwater pinnacle jutting up from the seafloor to around 15ft (3m). Sure enough, we had only been underwater for a few minutes when we saw one of the groupers and then another and then another. We went down to about 80ft (25m) and circled the rock formation several times as we got shallower until we concluded the dive at the top in perfect position for our safety stop.
Later that night, after dinner, Arlindo and I went to the Grafil Coffee Bar. We had been invited by Albano every day since we arrived to join him for his nightly 9:30 p.m. coffee meeting. My immediate reaction to this invitation was that I would not be able to drink coffee at 9:30 p.m. unless I planned to be up all night. After several days, however, I finally relented, and (like everything else) the coffee bar was within walking distance of where we had just had dinner, so we had to check it out. I was secretly hoping that it had more than coffee on offer.
My wish came true, and indeed, the group Albano was sitting with had more than just coffee in front of them. When I asked what (non-caffeinated and possibly distilled) beverage the bar recommended, I was told that I simply had to try a glass of Angelica, a fortified wine from the island. This was the same spirit I had just bought a few days earlier, which I had actually tasted and quite enjoyed—although I did not let on that I already knew about it. Quickly delivered to me, I took a sip, and the thick, sweet liqueur was delightful—a perfect after-dinner drink to end a lovely day.
There really is nothing cooler than sitting with “the regulars” at a bar in a new place. It is such a rare occurrence for a tourist to be sort of “let in” to a group and have a real interaction with the locals. While most of the conversation was in Portuguese, I tried to follow along while sipping my Angelica.
When we told the group where we were from and what we did, the man sitting next to me said he was a retired boat captain (I am a boat captain, too) and told us about his life and work on Graciosa Island. Probably the coolest thing he revealed was that he had a photo on his phone of the Terceirense (before it was a wreck) when it was delivering a school bus to the island. The port did not support the large cargo ship docking directly, so with his coordination, they balanced the school bus on two boats to get it to the small pier. It was such a sensational story (and image) that we would never have heard about it had we not been at the nightly coffee meeting.
Exploring topside sights
There are so many places I go where the entire focus is on diving, diving and more diving. But the Azores really is a place with everything—great diving, yes, but also great things to see above the water, excellent food and lovely people. For our last full day on the island, Albano and Fátima gave us the grand tour, and yet again, I was reminded that for such a small island, it is incredible how much there is to see.
Porto Afonso. We left Santa Cruz early in the day and drove north and then east along the coast, taking in the sights and sounds and stopping every so often to enjoy sheer cliff lookouts with turquoise pools, green shallows and dark water beyond. At one point, we followed a crumbling road down to the water and eventually had to park the car and walk the rest of the way. Porto Afonso had been a fishing port many years ago, and fishermen had dug holes in the rocks to store and protect their boats. There were several boats in a few of the holes, showing how it used to be done. We also watched birds fly overhead and peered into the clear water to see fish swimming below.
As you drive around the island, you cannot help but notice the many stone walls around the island, some enclosing areas no larger than a few meters. This is to protect the plants from the harsh winds and salt spray that the island experiences almost all year round. This includes the vines that grow the grapes for the Angelica I had tasted the night before, as well as the grapes for the white wines produced on the island, and various fruits and vegetables. I wondered about the hard work the people had done to build these stone walls and maintain them as the wind constantly tried to knock them down.
Although agriculture had been a major economic mainstay from the time of early settlement and continued for several hundred years, plant diseases were introduced in the early 1900s that ruined agriculture on the island. It decimated jobs and the economy, leading to mass emigration to the United States in the 1950s through the 1970s, and the population remains small to this day. However, there is still some agriculture, albeit on a much smaller scale. Fruit, wine, beef, cheese and dairy products, as well as fishing and tourism, are the current sources of income.
Funa do Enxofre. Next, we visited the remarkable Funa do Enxofre, within the Natural Monument of Caldeira da Graciosa, a massive domed lava cave with a lake. A lovely visitor center has been set up at the entrance with lots of information and a TV screen showing the current gas levels in the cave. Occasionally, the gas levels produced from the earth can be toxic to humans, and tours are paused until the air is breathable.
As we began our trek into the cave, our guide pointed out a section of rock that had been cleared of vegetation. Over the years, invasive species have been introduced to the Azores, many of which outcompeted with local (often endemic) species. In an effort to reduce the spread of invasive plants in this important monument, fire hoses have been used to pressure wash an invasive species from the area of the rock where the roots can take hold in the stone and eventually cause massive erosion.
To reach the cave, one descends a winding staircase in a stone tower with 183 steps and a height of 37m. This was built in 1939, but not initially for tourists. On an arid island subject to variable rainfall, farmers used the lake as a reputable place to collect water, but it was very steep and dangerous to reach. The stairs made it much easier.
As we spiraled down, there were various windows in the tower that revealed the beautiful greenery of the area. Eventually, we reached the bottom and the huge, dome-shaped cave and lake. Arlindo and I both looked at each other and, almost in unison, asked the guide if we could dive it. A path allowed us to get closer, but not too close, and on the far side was a bubbling mud pot, or degasification field, that audibly released gases from inside the earth.
As we continued the land tour, there were more magnificent views and random lava tubes on the side of the road. We passed some of the island’s “happy” cows and said hello to some very special island donkeys.
Queijadas da Graciosa. Our last stop was at a place where we could try queijadas da Graciosa. Just like São Miguel and mainland Portugal, Graciosa had its own version of these sweets. They were star-shaped with a light and crispy crust and a creamy egg filling, closer to pastel de nata, but with a more unique and bolder flavor. They were dangerously good.
Before arriving at Graciosa, I had read how small the island was—only 6.2 miles (10km) by 4.3 miles (7km). I thought it would be easy to explore in a day or two, but after spending some time here, I was amazed at how much there was to experience. It felt so much larger. With a total land mass of just under 24 sq mi (61 sq km) and the highest point at 1,230ft (375m), even after a week, it still seemed like there was so much more to see and do.
Warm hospitality
Our evening had more in store for us. Carlos, one of DivinGraciosa’s dive guides, had invited us to his home for a dinner celebration. This dinner was a night I will not forget. The kindness and generosity of inviting strangers into his home to literally spoil us with fantastic homemade food and spirits was amazing.
Once again, much of the conversation was in Portuguese, but just being there was worth it (and I learned more and more Portuguese with each meal). Eventually, it got quite late, and it was time to say goodbye, although more desserts kept arriving, as well as more offers to sample drinks and espresso, making it hard to say goodbye. Full to the brim, Albano and Fátima took us back to the hotel, and I slept like a baby, sated and content.
On our last afternoon, we wandered to the main square and ended up at the Amuni Green Bar for lunch. I had read about this highly recommended plant-based restaurant and café. Offering an ever-changing menu based on seasonal produce, an Italian couple had immigrated to Graciosa to open their dream restaurant, offering healthy and flavorful vegetarian dishes using locally available ingredients when in season—with an Italian flare, of course. I chose veggie crepes and a wonderful carrot juice.
After lunch, Albano picked us up for a few more island highlights before taking us back to the airport. As we were leaving, I was overwhelmed looking back at the week, all we had seen, and the immense hospitality Albano and Fátima had shown us while sharing their island with us.
As we hugged each other goodbye, I thanked Albano, and he said, “This is what we do for everyone…don’t think you’re special.” I laughed. I was certainly made to feel special on this very special island. I suppose I will not get too jealous knowing that everyone who visits Graciosa will feel the same. ■
Special thanks go to Arlindo Serrão, Portugal Dive, DivinGraciosa and Visit Azores.
Sources: VisitAzores.org, Wikipedia.org
