Located on the southeastern coast of Spain, the small, picturesque, seaside town of Cabo de Palos offers beautiful nature and diverse diving within a national marine reserve, as well as an abundance of interesting wrecks to explore. Underwater photographer Lars Stenholt Kirkegaard takes us on a tour of this little-known gem of a dive location in the Mediterranean.
Diver on reef at Cabo de Palos
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One thing I did not know was that Spain is the world’s second-most visited tourist destination, surpassed only by France. Every year, more than 90 million people visit this southern European country, which is twice the population of the country, and most of them visit during the summer months.
A lesser-known dive destination
Despite my many years as a diver, during which I have visited many of the popular dive spots around the world, Spain has never been a destination for my dive trips. It is not because there is not a lot of water and beaches in Spain. Most of the Spanish islands are top tourist destinations, many of which I have visited several times, including Mallorca, Gran Canaria and Lanzarote, on family and beach holidays. If I wanted to dive in the Mediterranean, it had always been Croatia, Malta and Cyprus at the forefront as my first choice when it came to getting my dive suit out. But it was time to change that trend.
Spain’s entire northern coast faces the Atlantic Ocean. You can always expect rough seas in these areas, so that was not where I set my sights. If you follow the coast downwards, you pass Portugal, which is one of the westernmost countries in Europe and also a major diving destination, where I have dived several times. Then the Spanish coastline begins again and continues to the Strait of Gibraltar, which separates the Atlantic Ocean from the Mediterranean Sea. And then there are a good couple of thousand kilometres of coastline to explore, all the way up to the French border. And it was along this stretch that I thought I would find a good dive spot.
Cabo de Palos
When you can choose from the top shelf, it did not take me long to decide on an area. At the southernmost tip of Spain and as far southeast as you can get, there is a small promontory called Cabo de Palos. Cabo means promontory in Spanish, because it is not quite a peninsula. But it is surrounded by water, and all around the town there are sharp cliffs and small, picturesque bays where you can swim in the clear Mediterranean waters. Of course, there is also a large, old lighthouse, which can be seen from all over town, shining its light far out to sea.
In a nation dominated by well-known destinations such as Barcelona, Mallorca and the Costa del Sol, this part of Spain is still relatively overlooked. That is precisely why the area feels authentic and unspoilt. Here, it is not about mass tourism, but about nature, the sea and experiences for those who really want to explore the Mediterranean beneath the surface.
The town is not large. Just over 1,000 people live here permanently, but in the summer months, the number of tourists multiplies as they come to climb the high cliffs a little inland, splash around with kayaks and paddleboards in the blue waters or go diving. And diving is exactly what you can do here.
National marine reserve
Seen from the air, it becomes clear how the contours of Cabo de Palos do not stop at the coastline but continue naturally below the surface of the sea. The cliff formations of the promontory extend like underwater ridges, forming striking columns where small islands and reefs rise upwards, surrounded by deeper waters on both sides. These dramatic structures create a varied and spectacular underwater landscape, which is the core of the marine national park that begins right here at the town of Cabo de Palos.
Formal protection of the area was established in 1995 under the name Reserva Marina de Interés Pesquero Cabo de Palos-Islas Hormigas. The decision stemmed from a growing awareness that the unique underwater mountains and reefs were under pressure from industrial fishing and intensive exploitation. With the creation of the reserve, large parts of the area were closed to trawling and other destructive fishing methods, while traditional, small-scale fishing continued to be permitted under strict rules. The aim was clear: to protect the ecosystems while preserving the local maritime industry.
A central part of the model is that fishing rights in Cabo de Palos are linked to the boats, not to the families. When a fisherman stops fishing, the licence cannot be inherited or sold. It can only follow the vessel as long as it is active. The scheme keeps the number of boats stable and prevents the accumulation of rights, which could otherwise increase fishing pressure. Only small-scale, traditional fishing is permitted in the reserve, while industrial fishing is completely prohibited. The result is a clear spillover effect, where growing stocks inside the reserve benefit both the ecosystem and local fishermen outside the reserve, while also creating a richer underwater life for divers.
For divers, this protection has been hugely significant. Since the reserve was established, fish stocks have grown significantly, and life on the reefs and reef pillars has become visibly richer. Large groups of sea bass, barracuda and toothfish are now regularly seen, and predatory fish are once again patrolling the reef edges. The dive sites are carefully managed so that only a few boats are allowed at each location at a time, reducing wear and tear and providing a more peaceful and controlled underwater experience.
The reserve protects not only biological life, but also geological heritage. The steep walls, caves and plateaus, formed over millions of years, are allowed to develop undisturbed. For divers, this means access to some of the Mediterranean’s most intact and species-rich environments—places where you can clearly see what targeted and consistent nature management can achieve.
Dive centres
While diving in this area may not be particularly well known to divers outside Spain, it is a very popular dive area for Spaniards themselves. That is why there is a surprisingly large concentration of dive centres in town. Along the small marina, the centres are located side by side, between sidewalk restaurants and ice cream parlours, and the atmosphere is exactly what you would hope for as a diver: a relaxed, seaside waterfront and marina full of activity.
Today, there are around ten active dive centres in Cabo de Palos, which is an unusually high number for a town of this size. All of them have their boats moored right in front of the centres, which practically minimises transport time, and during the high season and on busy weekends, the boats typically depart for the marine reserve every two hours.
The reason so many centres can exist side by side is simply that the area offers something very special. The promontory where Cabo de Palos is located is one of the most significant meeting points between the Atlantic and the Mediterranean. Here, two ocean systems meet, and the oceanographic conditions are unusually dynamic.
Biodiversity
A constant stream of nutrient-rich Atlantic water is pushed into the Mediterranean through the Strait of Gibraltar. At the same time, northern winds create periods of clear, warm Mediterranean water. The shifts between these water masses make the area extremely productive and provide a higher biodiversity than many other places in the Mediterranean.
Depth conditions also play a crucial role. The area has some of the greatest depths in Spain, and just a few nautical miles from the coast, the seabed drops dramatically from around 200m to depths of up to 2,000m. The dive sites in the marine reserve are often located on underwater mountains and reefs with peaks ranging from a few metres deep to 60-70m.
This combination of deep waters close to land and strong currents means that pelagic species regularly pass by. Sharks are rarely seen, but they are present in the area, and every year the sea offers spectacular encounters with larger marine animals, including whales. For the diving centres, this means that the season is not only about reefs and wrecks, but also about the chance for real open-ocean experiences just outside the harbour.
It is precisely this unique combination of easy access, well-organised centres and an exceptionally rich marine environment that makes Cabo de Palos one of Spain’s most interesting—but still relatively unknown—diving destinations.
Planeta Azul
In the middle of the harbour promenade in Cabo de Palos is Planeta Azul, a dive centre that feels more like a small, seaside meeting place than a business. The centre was founded about 25 years ago by three partners with a shared ambition: to open people’s eyes to the nature, underwater life and riches of the Mediterranean and to help more people understand why this corner of Spain is so special.
This philosophy is evident as soon as you walk through the door and meet the centre’s manager, Amelia Cánovas, an energetic and uncompromising enthusiast who has been here from the very beginning. She is not only an experienced instructor, but also the driving force behind the local visitor centre, which is run by the dive centre.
Visitor centre
The Centro de Visitantes de Cabo de Palos is actually located in the same building and is a gold mine for a real dive nerd. Several of the walls are filled with dive literature from floor to ceiling, hand-built models of ships that are now wrecks at the bottom of the sea, old underwater cameras that particularly made me drool, maps of the seabed in the Mediterranean and the local area, and last but not least, there was an abundance of relics from the bottom of the sea.
Next to the small visitor centre was a large auditorium with room for around 100 guests, which was often used for dive events, conferences or film screenings. It is a really good resource for the dive centres in such a small town, and I immediately imagined how I could gather a hundred underwater photographers here for an event and hold a big photo competition.
During my visit to the visitor centre, Amelia took the time to show me around and explain points of interest in the area using an impressive 3D model that she had designed and built herself. In just a few minutes, it provided a crystal-clear overview of the underwater topography, depths and current conditions, as well as all the many dive sites that lay like pearls on a string in the marine reserve—a perfect introduction to the dives that awaited.
Certified Avelo centre
Planeta Azul also stands out in other ways. The centre is currently Europe’s only certified Avelo centre, and during my stay I had the opportunity to take an Avelo course here myself. It was a fascinating experience to dive with the new system, which changes the whole way you think about buoyancy—but that story deserves its own article.
Inclusivity
Another thing you quickly notice is the composition of the team. The majority of the employees are women, and this is entirely deliberate. Amelia believes that it creates a special atmosphere and a more relaxed and inclusive approach to teaching and guests. It clearly works. The atmosphere at the centre is relaxed, professional and remarkably welcoming—whether you are a beginner or an experienced diver.
As a guest, you can tell that Planeta Azul is not just about getting people into the water as quickly as possible. Here, it is about understanding the place, in particular respecting the marine reserve and experiencing the Mediterranean on its own terms. For me, the centre became a natural gathering point throughout my stay and a perfect base for exploring the marine reserve.
Simple diving
It is super easy to dive from the area. First, you sail quietly through the marina while waving to all the tourists sitting along the restaurants, watching curiously. Then you sail out into the open water past the town’s impressive lighthouse (which you must not miss visiting), and then it is just a quick sail out to the first good dive sites. After that, the dive sites come like pearls on a string. The further out you go, the deeper the water around the reefs becomes and the more wrecks you find.
This is the Mediterranean, so normally the water is a beautiful blue, but in this area, it is often also very oxygenated due to the many sea currents and turbulence around the rocks, so it was more turquoise in colour. The high oxygenation is a bit bad for visibility, but very good for wildlife, which is one of the first things you notice when you descend the strong rope from the dive buoy.
Rugged cliffs, lush vegetation and large schools of fish are all around you, mixed with large sea bass standing majestically like kings around every corner. I had not expected this at all. Large fish of this type are not commonplace in the Mediterranean, where commercial fishing and underwater hunting would immediately reduce their numbers considerably.
I usually dive with a camera and thus behave as underwater photographers often do, staying in the same area for a longer period of time and not dealing with anyone other than a dive buddy. However, here, we dived in a larger group led by a guide, on a reef where the current was noticeable.
The guide’s job was to show us as much of the reef as possible, and it was, of course, nice to have some of the exciting things on the reef pointed out to us. At first, I thought it was nice to have a guide. But I soon realised that none of the reefs was so large that you could not typically get around them in the time it takes to do a dive, so I quickly found another dive buddy with an interest in photography, which allowed us to skip part of the tour and get some time to focus on individual subjects, including the large fish.
Special treatment
On one of the course dives I had during the week, I had Amelia with me as my instructor and diving partner. It was a bit of a luxury to have my own guide, and it turned out to be a great experience. At one of the reefs, she knew exactly where we should swim away from the rocks into the big deep blue.
It was really exciting to get out from the reef like that, because the big schools of fish were suddenly above, below and around us. I almost got a crick in my neck from looking in all directions at once, and I could clearly feel the different ocean currents coming first from one side and then from the other, with a noticeable difference in temperature. Some of the water clearly came from the great depths, and the thermocline danced before our eyes.
However, the goal of leaving the rock was not to end up in the middle of nowhere, but to get to another reef that ran parallel to ours. Suddenly, not just one side of the rock, but two reef tops appeared in front of us. Between the reefs, a small gorge formed, and this gorge was filled with stationary sea bass.
Prior to the dive, I had asked Amelia if she would act as a model and swim up over the reef and come swimming from below through the crevice. I would then hang between the rocks and wait for her, then take the winning shot. As always, planning is an important part of a successful photo, but unfortunately, currents, light and visibility also play important roles in such a setup, and I do not think it turned out quite as I had envisioned. But I got the photo, and it was still a great experience to hang in the middle of the fish soup among so many big fish.
Wreck diving
Let me start by being completely honest: I did not dive on a single wreck during my stay in Cabo de Palos. As a dedicated wreck enthusiast, it almost hurts to admit. I had a limited number of days in the area, and part of the time was spent on courses and training. Many of the most famous wrecks are also further out and deeper than normal open-water depth, and this time, the logistics simply did not work out.
It was a shame, of course. On the other hand, I had time to geek out with my camera together with another underwater photographer, which was a nice alternative. Still, I could sense that Cabo de Palos has something very special to offer when it comes to wrecks.
One of the Mediterranean’s great wreck graveyards
The waters around Cabo de Palos are considered one of the most important ship graveyards in the entire Mediterranean. The combination of strong currents, dramatic underwater mountains and a network of shallow reefs has made the area a dangerous passage for shipping for centuries.
Just a few nautical miles from the coast, the Hormigas Islands form a natural barrier. Only two of them break the surface; the rest are hidden just below the water. Bajo de Fuera in particular has a fearsome reputation—an underwater mountain whose peak is just a few metres below the surface in some places. For many ships, it proved fatal.
Over 50 known ships have sunk in these waters. Some collided with shoals and reefs, others were sunk during the First and Second World Wars when German submarines patrolled the strategic routes. Today, the wrecks rest as artificial reefs at depths of between 30 and 70 metres.
Names such as Naranjito, Carbonero, Sirio, Nord America, Minerva and Stanfield are almost legendary among wreck divers—each with its own story and character.
Stories beneath the surface
One of the most spectacular wrecks is the Stanfield, a 120-metre-long British merchant ship that was torpedoed during the First World War. Today, it lies at a depth of around 63 metres, and the hole left by the torpedo is still clearly visible in the hull.
A completely different story is linked to the Italian ocean liner Sirio, which ran aground on Bajo de Fuera in 1906. The shipwreck cost hundreds of lives and is considered the largest civilian maritime accident in Spanish history. Diving here is not only a technical experience, but also an encounter with dramatic maritime history.
Over time, these wrecks have become covered with algae, fungi and crustaceans. They now function as living reefs full of fish and life.
An impressive list of wrecks
The area contains a long catalogue of wrecks, from ancient finds to modern steel ships. Among the best known are: Phoenician ship (Bajo de la Campana), SS Alavi, Autolycus, Conway, SS Despina G. Michalinos, Doris, Gisla, Isla Gomera (El Naranjito), Kansega, Kut Sang, La Chatarra, Lilla (Carbonero), Monte Toro, SS Moyune, Nalyn, Nord America, Primo, El Remolcador, Turia, SS Sirio, Nitsa (SS Stanfield), Ulla, SS Urd, Wilmore and Minerva.
Just the list gives you a sense of how much history lies hidden beneath the surface. So yes, I missed out on the wrecks this time. But Cabo de Palos is clearly a place where you can spend a long time exploring everything that lies in the depths. I already have a really good excuse to return.
Murcia: Shaped by the sea
Cabo de Palos is part of the Murcia region, and even on the drive here, you can feel how varied this corner of Spain is. Desert-like landscapes, green valleys, forests and high mountains lie side by side, while small rivers have historically supplied the area with water and made settlements possible. Further up the coast is Alicante, where my wife and I flew in and rented a car, and to the south is the charming port city of Cartagena. Both places are worth visiting if you are interested in more than just beach life.
During my days in Cabo de Palos, Amelia had vividly recounted the maritime history that permeates the entire region. Every bay, every reef and every harbour has its own story of trade, war, fishing and shipwrecks. It quickly became clear that if you really wanted to understand the area, you also had to understand its relationship with the sea over thousands of years. So, we decided to set aside time to visit one of Spain’s most important museums of underwater archaeology in Cartagena.
ARQUA
Museo Nacional de Arqueología Subacuática (ARQUA) is not a huge museum, but it is incredibly fascinating. The building itself is architecturally beautiful and elegant. Inside, it houses an impressive collection of objects recovered from the seabed: anchors, amphorae, tools and personal belongings from ships that never reached their destination. Walking around the displays felt like leafing through the Mediterranean’s own diary.
The gem of the collection is a small but world-famous wooden ship—a Phoenician merchant ship from around the 7th century BC, found near Cabo de Palos. It is considered one of the oldest preserved boats in the world and provides a rare insight into how seafaring worked more than 2,600 years ago. Standing a few metres away from a vessel that had sailed in the same waters we had just dived in suddenly made history very real.
The visit provided an important backdrop to my trip. The wrecks under the water are not just rusty hulls, but chapters in a long story about people who lived by and gained sustenance from the Mediterranean for thousands of years. After a morning at the museum, we saw the diving around Cabo de Palos with completely new eyes.
Sub Up: Home away from home
When you are travelling, accommodation plays a role in the experience, especially when your base is a place you return to after long days on the water. In Cabo de Palos, very few dive centres have their own accommodation, so we chose to stay at Sub Up, a hostel a few hundred metres from the harbour, where the town pulsates. Sub Up feels more like a hotel than a hostel: clean, tidy and with daily cleaning. So, every evening, you can come home tired and settle into a freshly made bed—exactly what you sometimes need most after diving and teaching.
The facilities are better than you would immediately expect from a hostel: a gym, large cosy lounges, a kitchen with space to cook and your own fridge drawer, yoga and fitness rooms that both guests and locals use, plus social outdoor areas close to the beach. From the large terrace, you can see the sea between the streets and hear the waves—a definite plus when you start your day with a morning swim and a cup of coffee in the morning light.
It is also possible to rent SUP boards and kayaks here, so the hostel serves as a natural gathering point for outdoor enthusiasts. Sub Up attracts not only divers, but also climbers and other outdoor enthusiasts, highlighting the versatility and year-round activity of the area.
Our stay also offered an encounter with Murcia’s more unpredictable weather. In recent years, the region has experienced periods of unusually heavy rainfall and so-called flash floods, where large amounts of water can cause local flooding in a short period of time. Such events occasionally affect parts of eastern Spain, especially in the autumn and winter months, and serve as a reminder of how quickly the weather can change in an otherwise sunny area.
During our stay, a heavy rain front arrived. It poured down in one long, uninterrupted burst, and all diving was cancelled that day due to lightning and thunder. Cabo de Palos is located like a small peak out in the sea, and although the area—according to the news—was one of the places with forecast heavy rain showers, we were fortunately spared relatively lightly. However, water ran down the hills in small rivers, along streets and paths, and the yoga room in the hostel, which is normally a quiet gathering place for wellness, was surprisingly flooded. Later that afternoon, active staffers were already busy mopping up the water, and the situation was quickly brought under control.
In this way, Sub Up became not just a place to sleep, but an active element in our experience of Cabo de Palos—a base where we could relax, train, socialise and experience the local lifestyle, even when the forces of nature were allowed to join in.
Summary
Before leaving for Spain, I spent a lot of time thinking about the destination. With a relatively good knowledge of the country, I wanted to experience something new, be surprised and immerse myself a little in underwater life, diving techniques and maritime history. It is safe to say that Cabo de Palos delivered.
It is in no way reminiscent of dive towns in Asia and the Caribbean, even though the dive atmosphere is strong and the number of diving enthusiasts with fish tattoos was high. There was far too much of a Mediterranean vibe to the area for that. But there is a very local and authentic atmosphere in the town.
For example, you cannot be sure that the wait staff in cafés and restaurants speak English, so you often have to be prepared to use a few gestures to make yourself understood, but that is precisely the charm of a local environment. There are no wait staff standing around trying to lure you in, and there are no souvenir shops or large markets, which in itself is a bit liberating.
Apart from a couple of supermarkets, there is just what is needed to make most divers happy: several diving centres, with good RIB boats that can easily and quickly take you out to good dive sites, nearby places to eat, especially if you like fish, with several good restaurants to try, and convenient places to stay, including both hostels and hotels. And since the town is located on a spit of land, the sea is always close by, offering great opportunities for scenic walks along the water and delightful swimming in cosy little bays. ■
References: Fishbase, Fishi-pedia, Wikipedia
Special thanks go to Planeta Azul (planeta-azul.com).
For more information, see Spain tourism at: spain.info
