Advertisement

Baja: Secrets of the Sea of Cortez

Mexico’s Sea of Cortez is home not only to big animals such as whales, orcas, dolphins, sea lions and hammerhead sharks but also several notable wrecks. Underwater photographers Michael Salvarezza and Christopher P. Weaver share their adventures in the waters of the Baja Peninsula.

Pair of starry morays share a cozy home, Sea of Cortez, Baja California Syd, Mexico.

Contributed by

The underwater world is filled with secrets. Unexplored locations, undiscovered marine life and unexpected marine encounters are examples of the mysteries that beckon divers as they plan their next adventures. The objective of our expedition to the southern waters of Mexico’s Sea of Cortez was to uncover the secrets of this marine wilderness. 

But divers have been coming here for years, you might say. Indeed, the Sea of Cortez is known as a haven for big animals. Several species of whales, dolphins, sea lions, orcas and schools of hammerhead sharks are commonly encountered off the Baja Peninsula in an area that Jacques Cousteau once called “The World’s Aquarium”. We were hoping for something a bit different. So, what secrets could we hope to find in this often-explored marine wilderness?

Our journey started in Cabo San Lucas, then moved up to La Paz, Loreto and points north. After an orientation to our liveaboard, an overnight cruise and a thorough dive briefing, it was time to dive. With the warmth of an early morning sunrise heating up the dive deck, we prepared for the dive and were splashing into the calm waters of the Baja Peninsula before breakfast. In an instant, we were transfixed.

Image
Male sea lion photo by Salvarezza and Weaver
A male sea lion blows a warning burst of bubbles. California sea lions can be encountered in several locations in the Sea of Cortez. (Photo: Michael Salvarezza and Christopher P. Weaver)

Las Animas 

Underwater, it was like a three-ring circus. Everywhere we looked, there was something amazing to see. Female Guadalupe fur seals cavorted and danced in the water like acrobats in a frenetic Cirque du Soleil-like performance. California sea lions darted in and out of the rocks while inquisitive juvenile seals approached cautiously, nibbling at our fins and eyeing us with a playful gaze. All the while, we could hear the constant barking of dozens of pinnipeds enjoying the relative safety of the sheltered cove at a place called Las Animas in the southern Sea of Cortez. With our heads on a swivel, we tried to keep track of it all!

During our dive briefing, we had been told that the male “beach master” California sea lions, some weighing upwards of 400 lbs (181kg) or more, would also be patrolling the water, keeping a close eye on the females and warning off any perceived threat. For divers, it was important to be aware that these males will exhibit predictable behaviors in an escalating fashion should they perceive a diver to be getting too close for comfort. 

First, the males will circle the diver, barking loudly and watching the diver from fairly close range. If the diver does not retreat, the bull male will indicate his displeasure by swimming in a straight line in front of the diver and blowing a curtain of bubbles. And again, should the diver still be seen as a threat, the male will then rush the diver, baring his teeth and blowing bubbles directly into the diver’s face.

This all sounds entertaining until it happens to you! The sight of a large male bull sea lion charging directly at you is definitely heart-stopping. Lesson learned: Pay attention to the first warning signs and back off, even if it is the sea lions that are approaching you.

Las Animas is one of several sites in the southern Sea of Cortez where divers can have wondrous experiences with these marine mammals. La Reyna and Los Islotes are two others, and all offer stunning dives with these charismatic creatures. 

But these dive sites and underwater experiences are hardly secrets. Since our expedition was designed to uncover the true secrets of this majestic body of water, we turned our attention to shipwrecks. In the southern Sea of Cortez, there are a number of intriguing shipwrecks, each with a colorful history and well worth exploring.

Image
Diver on C-54 wreck photo by M. Salvarezza and C.P. Weaver
Michael Salvarezza explores the wreck of the C-54 (Photo: Christopher P. Weaver)

C-54 Agustin Melgar

The C-54 Agustin Melgar is an old minesweeper that sank south of Puerto Escondido in 2000. The C-54 measures 185ft (56m) in length with a beam of 33ft (11m). It is one of the least known and underrated wreck dives in the Sea of Cortez.

The ship was built in 1944 in Tampa, Florida, and given the rather unromantic name USS Device (AM-220). After its initial assignment in the Panama Canal Zone, AM-220 was transferred to Pearl Harbor. Here, it served as an escort vessel for other ships and convoys. It patrolled the waters around Palau in late 1944 and then returned to escort duty in 1955 at various locations in the Pacific. Some of the places it was assigned were Kossol Roads, Manus, Ulithi, Guam, Saipan, the Philippines and, lastly, the island of Okinawa, where it escorted several war cargo and assault ships. 

On 6 April 1945, AM-220 came to the aid of the warship USS Mullany, which had been struck by Japanese kamikaze attacks, rescuing 16 survivors. For the rest of that year, AM-220 continued to sweep mines in the Far East in support of the US Third Fleet operations against Japan. Indeed, the vessel was awarded three battle stars for its service during World War II.

Several years later, in 1950, USS Device AM-220 was re-commissioned and served primarily as a training vessel along the US East Coast, Canada and the Caribbean. In 1955, it was reclassified as MSF-220, and in 1962, the ship was finally sold to the government of Mexico.

The end of its life above the waterline came in 2000 when the decision was made to sink it intentionally to create an artificial reef. The ship was carefully prepared for sinking and put down south of the Puerto Escondido area within the Loreto Bay National Park. Today, the vessel makes a great dive for shipwreck explorers.

Swimming through its long, silent corridors brings the diver closer to the terrible battles of World War II. We always reflect on a wreck’s history when we pass through its ghostly remains or touch the metal of its superstructure. The C-54 is not just an artificial reef created for the pleasure of divers or to enhance the local environment. It is a time capsule and a relic from a time when the men and women of the military fought to preserve freedom in the modern world.

Image
Christopher Weaver at wreck propeller photo by Mike Salvarezza
Christopher Weaver examines the propeller of a shipwreck. (Photo: Michael Salvarezza)

The Fang Ming 

There are other wrecks in the southern Sea of Cortez, each with their own unique stories to tell. Near the El Bajo seamount, the wreck of the Fang Ming has a darker legacy. It was a Chinese fishing vessel seized by the authorities on 18 April 1995 for attempting to smuggle migrant workers into the United States. When it was captured, 88 men and seven women were found on board, all held in a cramped and confined space.

On 18 November 1999, the 183ft (56m) long vessel was intentionally sunk near Isla Ballena, becoming Latin America’s first artificial reef. It is now a popular dive site off the west coast of Espíritu Santo Island, in front of El Corralito. It rests in 75ft (23m) of water and is host to an abundance of marine life, including large green sea turtles that seem to enjoy a quiet rest on the decks of the shipwreck. On our dive, we experienced a thermocline at around 60ft (18m), where the water temperature dropped from 75 to 70°F (21-24°C), below which the water was much murkier. This added a sense of mystery to the wreck of a ship that was once used for smuggling human beings. 

C-59 

Another sunken secret is the C-59 wreck. The C-59 wreck is actually the USS Diploma (AM221), an Admiral-class minesweeper that was awarded three battle stars for its service in the Pacific during World War II. 

In 1962, it was sold to the Mexican Navy and renamed ARM DM-17 and later, in 1994, ARM Cadete Francisco Márquez(C59). In 2004, it was sunk as an artificial reef near the coastal city of La Paz. It lies on its port side, ranging in depth from 70ft (21m) to 30ft (9m).

Image
Salvatierra wreck photo by M. Salvarezza and C. P. Weaver
The crumbling wreckage of the Salvatierra. (Photo: Michael Salvarezza and Christopher P. Weaver)

The Salvatierra

The Salvatierra was originally built as a ferry to transport shipyard workers across the Chesapeake Bay to Newport News, Virginia, during WWII. The ship measured 320ft (97m) in length, with a beam of 50ft (15m). 

Following the end of the war, the ship was eventually sold at auction. It was given the new name of Salvatierra and began flying the Mexican flag when it was put into ferry service on a route between La Paz and Topolobampo (near Los Mochis in the state of Sinaloa).

In June 1976, the Salvatierra struck Suwanee Reef and sank. At the time, the ship was carrying a highly combustible cargo of gasoline, jet fuel, butane and diesel fuel, so there were no passengers on board. It sank in 60ft (18m) of water.

On 30 September 1976, Hurricane Liza passed over La Paz with winds reaching 120mph (195kph). Underwater, the effects of the storm rolled the Salvatierra onto its bottom, and the action of the waves tore the entire housing off the deck. The Salvatierra, battered and bruised, is now a terrific wreck dive for divers.

On our dive, we explored a murky shipwreck that shares its secrets with those who visit. Penetrating inside and swimming through the dimly lit corridors takes divers back to that fateful day when the ship was mortally wounded by the nearby reef. In the sand alongside the wreck, we found an enormous southern stingray, easily measuring 10ft (3m) from the nose to the tip of the tail, as well as scorpionfish and territorial sergeant majors earnestly defending their egg masses.

The Salvatierra and the other wrecks in the area connect divers to fascinating stories and important history. And while some are not explored as often as others, these wrecks are not exactly secrets. 

Suwanee Reef 

Still searching for secrets of the Sea of Cortez, we next explored Suwanee Reef. Here, we found a lush reef bathed in crystal clear water and warm temperatures. Clouds of fish darted among the rocks and hard corals, while pixy hawkfish stood guard at every turn, warily watching divers as they swam by. 

With our macro lenses at the ready, we focused on the smaller denizens of this reef. Several species of nudibranchs were spotted, displaying their flamboyant colors. We also came across a pair of starry moray eels sharing a small crevice. “Were they a pair?” we wondered. And before leaving the reef, we photographed an extremely shy seahorse. But as beautiful as this reef was, it could hardly be deemed a secret.

Image
Gorgonian sea fans and hard corals on reef, Sea of Cortez, photo by M. Salvarezza and C. P. Weaver
The reefs of the Sea of Cortez are home to gorgonian sea fans and hard corals. (Photo: Michael Salvarezza and Christopher P. Weaver)

Danzante Island 

Our next adventure was a night dive at Danzante Island near Loreto. With clear water and little current, we were able to explore the rocky reefs buzzing with nocturnal marine life. Zebra morays swam along the bottom in search of prey while the somewhat grotesque lion’s paw sea cucumber pulsed and crept along like some alien creature looking to devour its next meal. Clouds of shrimp and zooplankton swarmed around our lights and in front of our lenses, making photography an interesting challenge. As night divers know, the reefs come alive after sunset with a plethora of nocturnal creatures, and this dive, like most night dives, was exhilarating.

But it was when we surfaced from this dive that we finally achieved our objective. We poked our heads above the water and were met with the splendors of the Baja night. Only the sounds of divers moving softly in the water broke the silence. Impenetrable darkness surrounded us. In the water, flashes of bioluminescence danced to and fro as we waved our arms and moved our feet. Miniscule planktonic sea creatures were alive and glowing, their pulses of light captivating.

Then, as we gazed up toward the sky, the magnificence of the universe was revealed. The Milky Way, our home galaxy, stretched across the dark curtain of night with a tapestry of billions of stars blinking at us from untold distances across space. And on the horizon, where the water meets the sky, the bioluminescent flashes of the microscopic creatures of the sea met the pinprick lights of the universe and blended together into one contiguous miracle.

The tiniest life forms in the sea and the giant stars of the cosmos were connected. They were all part of the same universe, a continuity of life and nature. Ultimately, this was the secret of the Sea of Cortez that we had been searching for, finally revealed in all its glory. We floated in the stillness, allowing the wonders of both worlds to wash over us.

And then it was time for dinner. ■

Sources: Wikipedia, iNaturalist

Michael Salvarezza and Christopher P. Weaver are widely published dive writers, underwater photographers and presenters based in New York. For more information, visit: ecophotoexplorers.com.

Advertisements